The 12th
This morning I went to church with OZ (‘O-Zead’), which was a strange experience on many accounts. He gave me a Hausa bible, which is currently wedged into my bookshelf right next to the Quran/Koran in English and Arabic. There were only 5 adults, including me and the pastor, and as we sang in Hausa my mind wandered. Churchgoing is comforting, no matter what you believe. It’s nostalgic and I’ve kept away these past few years to avoid hypocrisy, because I’m not sure what I believe anymore, (typical 20-something I am), but even if it’s just going through the motions…
Most people here are fanatically fervent in their beliefs and expressions of faith (praying 5 times a day?! That takes dedication!), and I feel of late I’ve ascribed to the American disillusioned intelligentsia anti-religion school of thought, distancing myself from any sincere expression of faith. But some of those of the smart set go to church too. My whole life I’ve been thinking of religion and spirituality as an all-or-nothing deal: either you are or you aren’t, you buy the bullshit or you don’t. Of course people aren’t wired that way, and my own wavering middle ground refusal-to-commit-to-any-one-opinion ‘belief’ of sorts that I’ve held for the past few years (I can’t quite let go of the idea of a Creator, but I’m not about to assert that Jesus is the only way) is evidence of that. So…what? Is it okay to attend church without the 100% sincere trusting faith of a child? To go not because you believe but because of the comfort and community you find there? Does your motive (have to) really matter? Is there something these guys (Nigeriens) are getting right, God playing a larger, more consciously on-the-surface role in their lives? So where do I go now—what do I believe, and what do I do? Try to read some familiar Bible tales in Hausa and see where that gets me, I guess.
The 13th
Thrown like a bucket of chum to a school of sharks today at the private school in town, what the hell am I doing here? I have no great specific practical wisdom to impart.
Today at ‘wurin Sani’ (‘Sani’s place’ AKA hanging with my fada) the conversation turned to the worth of women (½ as much as men; “the Koran says so!” is the common refrain). “What if you get married and your husband wouldn’t let you come visit Niger?” they asked. “It’s not a question of him letting me—I would tell him what I was going to do and I would do it!” Apparently women have to ask their husbands for permission to do anything, and they don’t initiate divorces, ever. “Women aren’t as smart as men,” my friends said. “What?!?” “The Koran says so.” “Well Mohammed was a man—if he had been a woman it would have been the other way around!” They got a kick out of that. They continued—it wasn’t what Mohammed thought, he only wrote what God told him. “Well if God were a woman…” The conversation concluded when we all agreed that God is bigger than we mere humans are capable of understanding.
This conversation was easy and fun (I was laughing a lot) but had echoes of a scary time in my life. Yes they actually believe this, but I found myself thinking: ‘So what?’ I don’t really care if they think 2 women are equal to 1 man in value, IF they’re willing to respect their wives (treat them well, not beat them), send their daughters to school…I mean, I’m not here to convert them to my superior way of thinking. That’s pointless and would be frustrating: I know because I’ve been there. I remember when I was an überChristian with such strong convictions, willing to argue points of faith and bully people into believing my truth, which was the only one. I don’t ever want to go back to that mentality and besides that’s not why I’m here. If I can just be an example of a different way, and a voice that challenges them to think critically (whether or not they actually do), I’ll have done all I can do. Thanks be to Allah.
Slightly related note: tractors. Industrial advancement. Life here is so pastoral, and as a visitor I relish it as a return to a past—a simpler, purer, healthier way of life. Doing farm work by hand isn’t as efficient as modern technology has forced farming to be in places like America, but are huge monoculture factor farms really a ‘better’ way of doing things? I get to be as jaded and cynical and critical as a liberal education of Michael Pollen and issues of the New Yorker could allow—that’s a privilege. Who am I though, emissary of the 1st world, to tell Nigeriens to feel lucky and be grateful, that they are ‘better off’ without tractors? They (should) have the right to rape the land and destroy the environment as much as anybody. The problem, of course, is money.
I have nothing to give, everything to gain, and am as terrible a person as ever. Want to feel like a grade A jerk? Move to Niger.
The 15th
Last night I had the most terrifying dream—Tondi riding up on a horse, catching me fiddling with a radio, which I could not for the life of me figure out how to turn off. I had been told 2 or 3 times to turn it off, not to listen to it, but I was busy with some crafty task (carpentry?). It was so vivid—just as I remembered that I needed to turn it off, and couldn’t figure out how, and finally decided to pop the batteries out, Tondi was there, looming over me. He kicked me out of Peace Corps right there. I pleaded, I cried, I tried to repeal, I tried to explain. I was crushed. I woke up terrified, relieved, in awe that this apparently means so much to me. I really am loving it here, incomparably moreso than France (though that was good for what it was).
Today was a fabulous day: a ‘sunan’ (baptism) where Nasaifa peed on me and I ate chicken, planning English Club with Zabeiru…just walking through town is so fun. I’m finding a rhythm, as awkwardness gives way to knowledge of expectations and ease of person, language, etc. My friends, however I’ve found them, are fabulous, and even slight acquaintances are interesting, fun, caring, amazing. I’m getting excited about work possibilities and am getting into my groove. I would be devastated to be torn away right now.
The 21st
The last 3 days I spent visiting bush villages, the posts of the 3 volunteers coming to my department. Cindy and I ventured out into the unknown without advising the people of the towns beforehand (how could we?), trusting the incredible hospitality of Nigeriens to take care of us. And they did. The villages are small and picturesque, the people excited, friendly, helpful. We were provided with everything we needed—food, mats, a jerry-rigged light made out of a few batteries and a CD. I was amazed at our spirit (‘That town is 5k that way? Ok, see you in a few hours’), and also at how normal it all seemed. Even when we got almost lost for half a second, there was no space to be scared, as even in the open bush we were never far from signs of civilization—stored stacked millet stock, a shepherd, a small clump of houses. This place is beautiful, and the people all the more awe-inspiring for eking out a living here for generations. The landscape reminded me of northern California, near Paradise, near Chico. I felt like an incredibly capable explorer, and alternately like an inadequate human being, not as equal to the task of basic survival as the bush people here are. Trekking back to the road from the third village, I commented: “This is what humans were made for. Walking around Africa is what we evolved to do.” And here I was, doing it, even if in such a small capacity, my lazy American chub slowing me, my bright skin a constant worry, covered by a hat and sunscreen. These new volunteers will have a great time, I hope, and I can’t wait for them to come and for our experiences to commingle.
Also yesterday Souleymane asked me if I washed my clothes by hand or with a washing machine, which I brought from America on the plane, right? I found that too funny to laugh.
Christmas
Being in a mostly Muslim country for Christmas, you realize that, like most things, it’s mostly buildup. You’re reminded of the incongruity of Christmas’ origins, so radically religious, and its equally-as-legitimate bastard, commercial, completely cultural shadow, of shared music and films, similar (if personal and varied) memories. Such strong emotions are attached to this most random of dates (that’s not even determined by the moon!) that a random collection of Americans can come together in Zinder for a truly meaningful, delicious moment. For me, it’s about the family experiences that have been had, however nontraditional or small they’ve been. Spending Christmas away from family is nothing new, and even when it is with family, it’s nothing big, nothing movie- or J Crew catalog-worthy. Of course, as always, being away just makes me appreciate my people (“Greet your people for me!” –OZ), my foods (cranberry orange relish, cookie press cookies, lard-y shortbread, mashed sweet potatoes, lamb cake) and the times we are together so much more. I am so blessed with the fucked family I have, and the new friends I’ve made in Niger. Throwing another Mexican Christmas Eve eve feast for them (I invited a different set of friends than I invited for Thanksgiving—it seems even in Niger I am cursed/blessed with so many varied groups of friends that it’s impossible for them to all be together in one place at the same time) was fantastic.
Now
The new kids are almost here. It’s almost 2011. When did that happen? What will this next year bring? I can't be sure, but I'm hoping: camel rides, travel to other W. African countries, projects in my town (starting a radio station? I could be Niger's Ira Glass or Randi Rhodes!), new friends, a visit from my mom (and brother?!!!), etc. etc. etc.
Thursday, December 30, 2010
Tuesday, December 07, 2010
Mex-a-giving
November 26
Yesterday I invited about a dozen friends (Majabiya and her family and neighbors) over to my house for a Thanksgiving feast. I had obsessed over the menu for weeks, my criteria being: what could I cheaply make a lot of, fairly ‘easily’ that would be different and interesting to Nigeriens? Easy: Mexican food! Consulting the Peace Corps Niger cookbook, I made refried beans, which I cooked in two 2-hour batches the night before, saved the been goop drain-off, then refried them the day of in aforementioned bean goop and oil and onions (which I could have used more of) and added taco sauce mix my mom had sent me from the states. Rice with another taco sauce packet, flour tortillas and salsa (tomatoes, onions, salt, lime juice) rounded out the meal. Luckily an army of children had come over around noon to help sweep my concession, cook (and burn) the rice, wash dishes and ride my bike.
I showed them how to put the tacos together and I’m proud to say that it was a hit: “When are you going to teach us how to make this?” which I think means they liked it. They particularly liked the beans and tortillas, taking all the leftovers, presumably to show and share with family members at home. It was over and done with in less than 2 hours-I told them to come over at 5pm and they were all gone by 6:30. I had been cooking like a fiend for 4x that amount of time, but I loved doing it, especially for Majabiya, who cooks for me and welcomes me into her home all the time. It is such a labor of love to cook for family and friends, because they’re worth it. When I cook for myself I’m happy enough making the same thing every day: pasta and sautéed veggies, or some variation on the theme. Going to all the trouble of refrying beans is not something I’m going to do for myself. Majabiya thanked me for the food and party, and I thanked her: “Without you, I would have to celebrate alone” was the sentiment I attempted to communicate in Hausa.
Of course in the process of planning and throwing this party I thought of Thanksgivings past. This is my fourth one celebrated outside of the states and I always make it a to-do. It’s the perfect opportunity to share American culture with the rest of the world. I love that it’s not religious, it’s American, and I also love sharing the story of what we’re celebrating. As I tell it, the Amerindians shared their food with and saved the first Europeans to come to America, which was a bad move on their part, as the Europeans later proceeded to kill the Amerindians and steal their land. “What do you do for Thanksgiving?” people ask. We don’t exchange gifts, it’s a time for families to come together and eat lots of good food.
At least that’s how I explain it in my very basic Hausa. But reflecting on the Thanksgivings of my past, they’ve as often been spent with friends rather than family. We have celebrated with my mom’s best friend Nancy (who’s like an aunt) and her family; my godmother and her husband; “just us” (mom, brother, stepdad, me); and last year I spent it with my aunt, uncle, cousins, their friends and a coworker of mine I’d just met a few weeks before while my mom and stepdad were in California with other aunts, uncles and cousins. At least in my family it’s nothing like Tabaski in Niger, where people travel far to their hometowns to celebrate with brothers, sisters, nieces, nephews, mothers, fathers. It got me missing my grandma for the second time this week. My family has been without a matriarch for almost half my life. She must have been a unifying force as we (her 5 children and their families) have rarely convened all together since. The first time I missed her was while reading the Jane Austen book. I know my grandma loved her and regret not having read the books while she was alive so we could have discussed them. I also know she’d be able to relate to my Thanksgiving and other cooking endeavors.
I will never take a home-cooked meal for granted again-it takes a lot to plan and execute a meal that doesn’t involve instant- or microwaveable- anything. My godmother sent me cookbooks from the 70’s and 80’s and the complicated recipes and obscure ingredients struck me as incongruous with the (too?) fast-paced jam-packed ‘scheduled’ lives Americans lead these days. ‘Scheduling’ isn’t a prominent part of life here in Niger, and while it’s taking some getting used to, I like it. Family and friends are important in a matter-of-fact, everyday kind of way. I’m learning the protocols of greeting and visiting (and fucking it up a lot in the process). I’m grateful for the friends who have welcomed me into their homes so quickly, so easily. Even though it was exhausting, I see many such feasts for my friends in my future.
A week later the Zinder volunteers convened at the hostel to celebrate Thanksgiving together. We had 3 ducks, stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash bread, deviled eggs, squash casserole, green bean casserole, salad, and fruit salad, which I made. Bananas, oranges, apples, a papaya and shredded coconut. Mmmboy. We had wine, bissap, and mojitos. It was a good convivial time.
I’m grateful for anyone who has ever cooked for me, for current friends who are open and patient and generous to me, and friends and family back home whose letters and packages are so thoughtful and always welcome. Happy Thanksgiving! Barka da salla!
Yesterday I invited about a dozen friends (Majabiya and her family and neighbors) over to my house for a Thanksgiving feast. I had obsessed over the menu for weeks, my criteria being: what could I cheaply make a lot of, fairly ‘easily’ that would be different and interesting to Nigeriens? Easy: Mexican food! Consulting the Peace Corps Niger cookbook, I made refried beans, which I cooked in two 2-hour batches the night before, saved the been goop drain-off, then refried them the day of in aforementioned bean goop and oil and onions (which I could have used more of) and added taco sauce mix my mom had sent me from the states. Rice with another taco sauce packet, flour tortillas and salsa (tomatoes, onions, salt, lime juice) rounded out the meal. Luckily an army of children had come over around noon to help sweep my concession, cook (and burn) the rice, wash dishes and ride my bike.
I showed them how to put the tacos together and I’m proud to say that it was a hit: “When are you going to teach us how to make this?” which I think means they liked it. They particularly liked the beans and tortillas, taking all the leftovers, presumably to show and share with family members at home. It was over and done with in less than 2 hours-I told them to come over at 5pm and they were all gone by 6:30. I had been cooking like a fiend for 4x that amount of time, but I loved doing it, especially for Majabiya, who cooks for me and welcomes me into her home all the time. It is such a labor of love to cook for family and friends, because they’re worth it. When I cook for myself I’m happy enough making the same thing every day: pasta and sautéed veggies, or some variation on the theme. Going to all the trouble of refrying beans is not something I’m going to do for myself. Majabiya thanked me for the food and party, and I thanked her: “Without you, I would have to celebrate alone” was the sentiment I attempted to communicate in Hausa.
Of course in the process of planning and throwing this party I thought of Thanksgivings past. This is my fourth one celebrated outside of the states and I always make it a to-do. It’s the perfect opportunity to share American culture with the rest of the world. I love that it’s not religious, it’s American, and I also love sharing the story of what we’re celebrating. As I tell it, the Amerindians shared their food with and saved the first Europeans to come to America, which was a bad move on their part, as the Europeans later proceeded to kill the Amerindians and steal their land. “What do you do for Thanksgiving?” people ask. We don’t exchange gifts, it’s a time for families to come together and eat lots of good food.
At least that’s how I explain it in my very basic Hausa. But reflecting on the Thanksgivings of my past, they’ve as often been spent with friends rather than family. We have celebrated with my mom’s best friend Nancy (who’s like an aunt) and her family; my godmother and her husband; “just us” (mom, brother, stepdad, me); and last year I spent it with my aunt, uncle, cousins, their friends and a coworker of mine I’d just met a few weeks before while my mom and stepdad were in California with other aunts, uncles and cousins. At least in my family it’s nothing like Tabaski in Niger, where people travel far to their hometowns to celebrate with brothers, sisters, nieces, nephews, mothers, fathers. It got me missing my grandma for the second time this week. My family has been without a matriarch for almost half my life. She must have been a unifying force as we (her 5 children and their families) have rarely convened all together since. The first time I missed her was while reading the Jane Austen book. I know my grandma loved her and regret not having read the books while she was alive so we could have discussed them. I also know she’d be able to relate to my Thanksgiving and other cooking endeavors.
I will never take a home-cooked meal for granted again-it takes a lot to plan and execute a meal that doesn’t involve instant- or microwaveable- anything. My godmother sent me cookbooks from the 70’s and 80’s and the complicated recipes and obscure ingredients struck me as incongruous with the (too?) fast-paced jam-packed ‘scheduled’ lives Americans lead these days. ‘Scheduling’ isn’t a prominent part of life here in Niger, and while it’s taking some getting used to, I like it. Family and friends are important in a matter-of-fact, everyday kind of way. I’m learning the protocols of greeting and visiting (and fucking it up a lot in the process). I’m grateful for the friends who have welcomed me into their homes so quickly, so easily. Even though it was exhausting, I see many such feasts for my friends in my future.
A week later the Zinder volunteers convened at the hostel to celebrate Thanksgiving together. We had 3 ducks, stuffing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, squash bread, deviled eggs, squash casserole, green bean casserole, salad, and fruit salad, which I made. Bananas, oranges, apples, a papaya and shredded coconut. Mmmboy. We had wine, bissap, and mojitos. It was a good convivial time.
I’m grateful for anyone who has ever cooked for me, for current friends who are open and patient and generous to me, and friends and family back home whose letters and packages are so thoughtful and always welcome. Happy Thanksgiving! Barka da salla!
November 22 - Being the True Account of a Most Marvelous Day
Today began like any other-rushing off to the middle/high school where I observed two of Zabeiru’s English classes. The students were some of the most cordial I’ve encountered and Zabeiru’s very excited about both of my projects on the horizon (English Club and a teacher training). Hurrying off to hopefully meet Abdou-Zakari I nearly trod on a brilliantly hued green chameleon, the first I’ve seen since being here in Niger! I know Nigeriens are scared of them but I took the meeting as an auspicious omen. I watched him for a few minutes before continuing on my way. Later all my friends laughed as I showed them how the chameleon walked and made up the ‘hawenya rawa’ (‘chameleon dance’).
Next stop: the Inspection, where the bitches had the nerve to berate me for not having visited any of them for Tabaski. I thought holidays were supposed to be relaxed and relaxing affairs with friends and family! As it was I stressed myself out and got myself sick trying to get everywhere I had promised. Now here were a bunch of harpies saying it would have been nice/good/better/proper of me to go to the Inspector’s house and all their houses too. Whatever-living in Niger is a permanent lesson in not taking things personally.
Well Abdou-Zakari wasn’t around and neither was the mayor, whom I’d decided to visit since I was out and about in the town at 11am. Things were looking grim again-it was hot and kids were screaming ‘Anasara!’ as old ladies were asking where my medicine was for them. I was walking home down streets I’d never been down before, a whole new section of ‘my’ town that I enjoyed meandering through in the generally correct direction of my house. Then I saw a goat and her tiny baby. A double take and I saw that the baby was all wet and getting placenta licked off of it by its mom. I had happened upon a 2-minute old baby goat! Indeed as I stopped to watch I noticed a girl headed into the nearest doorway to inform the owners of the birth, and soon the new arrival had a crowd around it. I was entranced, and kept exclaiming: “Barka da haihuwa! Sannu da kokari!” (‘Congratulations on the birth! Good effort!’) to the mom, and “Sannu da zuwa cikin duniya!” (‘Welcome in the world!’) to the baby. A girl was using a stick to wipe the placenta off the baby’s face, as it tried to wobble to its feet and toppled over, legs sprawled and shaking with every effort. Fascinating! Then what to our wondering eyes should appear but something slimy sticking out of momma’s butt: another one! I watched as she kicked some dirt, lay down and a second baby slid out! She bit off the umbilical cord and began licking (and eating) the placenta off noticeably smaller baby #2. ‘Life is pretty nasty, but amazing’ I thought, as the babies sneezed to clear their noses and I remembered my cousin Chad sticking his fingers up a newborn calf’s nose after my Uncle Mark had delivered it by Cesarean section, the only comparable experience I had to this miracle. Enchanted, I promised I’d be back to check on the babies. Two days later I came with camera and soap in hand (a traditional naming ceremony gift) and asked what their names were. The people thought I was crazy, as they don’t usually name their animals, but since they were both boys they said the baby goats’ names were Hassan and Ousseini, (what all twins are named in Niger).
I made my way back to familiar territory, where I sat with my fada for about an hour, and I started to learn the Arabic alphabet. After resting and reading, I headed back to the mayor’s office, via the fada to pick up my friend Souleymane and take him to visit the new babies! Then to the mayor’s, where after a long wait she said she’d introduce me on Wednesday to the leader of a Women’s Group, and then to Majabiya’s house, where it goes without saying that delicious food was eaten.
Then to my fada, where ‘stopping and saying hey’ on my way to bed turned into an hour of laughing about djinns, (who appear in the form of ‘waddas’, or dwarfs, or very tall people at 1am, but when am I ever out at that hour here?), mice (who are Issa’s friends, even though they bite him and he poisons them, which is taking a lot of liberties with the term ‘friend,’ I think), Project Runway (somehow I’ve got to arrange a screening of that for Sani the tailor) and Issa’s upcoming race for City Council (I can’t support him publicly, of course, but in my heart he’s my candidate, but if he tells anyone I’ll beat him) and Issa’s current work drama which plays like a telenovela (and who knows how much of it is true): he has the same girlfriend as the Human Resources dude at the Inspection, so he’s being exiled to a school in the bush 200 km away (he’s an Arabic teacher). No potable water, electricity or cell phone reception, the horror! First I suggested he send the man chocolate (this before I knew about the girlfriend bit). “CORRUPTION!” they all cried, asking me if I was advocating for Issa to bribe the guy. I laughed. “Chocolate isn’t money!” Which is one of those great true-but-not-exactly turns of phrase (chocolate isn’t money, but it could still be a bribe). When I discovered “love” (or at least one of the fairer sex) was involved in this tale, I encouraged Issa to challenge his foe to a duel instead. It only makes sense!
To a somewhat sour start, I couldn’t have crammed more treasured moments and laughs into a single day if I had tried. What a splendid way to start Thanksgiving Week!
Next stop: the Inspection, where the bitches had the nerve to berate me for not having visited any of them for Tabaski. I thought holidays were supposed to be relaxed and relaxing affairs with friends and family! As it was I stressed myself out and got myself sick trying to get everywhere I had promised. Now here were a bunch of harpies saying it would have been nice/good/better/proper of me to go to the Inspector’s house and all their houses too. Whatever-living in Niger is a permanent lesson in not taking things personally.
Well Abdou-Zakari wasn’t around and neither was the mayor, whom I’d decided to visit since I was out and about in the town at 11am. Things were looking grim again-it was hot and kids were screaming ‘Anasara!’ as old ladies were asking where my medicine was for them. I was walking home down streets I’d never been down before, a whole new section of ‘my’ town that I enjoyed meandering through in the generally correct direction of my house. Then I saw a goat and her tiny baby. A double take and I saw that the baby was all wet and getting placenta licked off of it by its mom. I had happened upon a 2-minute old baby goat! Indeed as I stopped to watch I noticed a girl headed into the nearest doorway to inform the owners of the birth, and soon the new arrival had a crowd around it. I was entranced, and kept exclaiming: “Barka da haihuwa! Sannu da kokari!” (‘Congratulations on the birth! Good effort!’) to the mom, and “Sannu da zuwa cikin duniya!” (‘Welcome in the world!’) to the baby. A girl was using a stick to wipe the placenta off the baby’s face, as it tried to wobble to its feet and toppled over, legs sprawled and shaking with every effort. Fascinating! Then what to our wondering eyes should appear but something slimy sticking out of momma’s butt: another one! I watched as she kicked some dirt, lay down and a second baby slid out! She bit off the umbilical cord and began licking (and eating) the placenta off noticeably smaller baby #2. ‘Life is pretty nasty, but amazing’ I thought, as the babies sneezed to clear their noses and I remembered my cousin Chad sticking his fingers up a newborn calf’s nose after my Uncle Mark had delivered it by Cesarean section, the only comparable experience I had to this miracle. Enchanted, I promised I’d be back to check on the babies. Two days later I came with camera and soap in hand (a traditional naming ceremony gift) and asked what their names were. The people thought I was crazy, as they don’t usually name their animals, but since they were both boys they said the baby goats’ names were Hassan and Ousseini, (what all twins are named in Niger).
I made my way back to familiar territory, where I sat with my fada for about an hour, and I started to learn the Arabic alphabet. After resting and reading, I headed back to the mayor’s office, via the fada to pick up my friend Souleymane and take him to visit the new babies! Then to the mayor’s, where after a long wait she said she’d introduce me on Wednesday to the leader of a Women’s Group, and then to Majabiya’s house, where it goes without saying that delicious food was eaten.
Then to my fada, where ‘stopping and saying hey’ on my way to bed turned into an hour of laughing about djinns, (who appear in the form of ‘waddas’, or dwarfs, or very tall people at 1am, but when am I ever out at that hour here?), mice (who are Issa’s friends, even though they bite him and he poisons them, which is taking a lot of liberties with the term ‘friend,’ I think), Project Runway (somehow I’ve got to arrange a screening of that for Sani the tailor) and Issa’s upcoming race for City Council (I can’t support him publicly, of course, but in my heart he’s my candidate, but if he tells anyone I’ll beat him) and Issa’s current work drama which plays like a telenovela (and who knows how much of it is true): he has the same girlfriend as the Human Resources dude at the Inspection, so he’s being exiled to a school in the bush 200 km away (he’s an Arabic teacher). No potable water, electricity or cell phone reception, the horror! First I suggested he send the man chocolate (this before I knew about the girlfriend bit). “CORRUPTION!” they all cried, asking me if I was advocating for Issa to bribe the guy. I laughed. “Chocolate isn’t money!” Which is one of those great true-but-not-exactly turns of phrase (chocolate isn’t money, but it could still be a bribe). When I discovered “love” (or at least one of the fairer sex) was involved in this tale, I encouraged Issa to challenge his foe to a duel instead. It only makes sense!
To a somewhat sour start, I couldn’t have crammed more treasured moments and laughs into a single day if I had tried. What a splendid way to start Thanksgiving Week!
Conversations with Majabiya
Watching some dumb Nicolas Cage movie I had the following conversation in Hausa with Majabiya, in which I try to explain aliens:
MAJ: Who are they?
ME: Uh, they’re from the stars.
MAJ: There are people in the stars?
ME: Well, some people think, just like we have a world and people, there are worlds and people out there, in the stars.
MAJ: Oh.
ME: But, there are people who think ‘one Allah, one world, that’s it.’ So, I don’t know. A lot of movies are about people from the stars.
MAJ: Ok.
On Vegetarians, as informed by Michael Pollen’s Omnivore’s Dilemma:
ME: I have 3 friends here who don’t eat meat. What did they do during Tabaski?
MAJ: Oh right! (A beat, then: ) Why don’t they eat meat?
ME: Uh, well, in America, it’s not like here, where each family has one or two or three goats or cows. In America, one person can have lots of cows-thousands! And when there are a lot, they don’t have health. They give them medicine all the time.
MAJ: They don’t eat meat because the animals aren’t healthy like animals here.
ME: …Yeah sure. Also, there are people who love animals, so they don’t want to eat them. I don’t understand, because meat is so delicious!
MAJ: Does the meat taste better here or in America?
ME: I don’t know, because we don’t eat sheep much in America. Mostly cows, and chicken, and pork! (end of discussion)
While she walked me part of the way home one particularly moonlit night:
ME: The moon is beautiful tonight.
MAJ: Do you have a moon in the US?
ME: (scoffs) Yes! Of course! One world!
MAJ: (laughs) One world, different people.
ME: Exactly!
MAJ: Who are they?
ME: Uh, they’re from the stars.
MAJ: There are people in the stars?
ME: Well, some people think, just like we have a world and people, there are worlds and people out there, in the stars.
MAJ: Oh.
ME: But, there are people who think ‘one Allah, one world, that’s it.’ So, I don’t know. A lot of movies are about people from the stars.
MAJ: Ok.
On Vegetarians, as informed by Michael Pollen’s Omnivore’s Dilemma:
ME: I have 3 friends here who don’t eat meat. What did they do during Tabaski?
MAJ: Oh right! (A beat, then: ) Why don’t they eat meat?
ME: Uh, well, in America, it’s not like here, where each family has one or two or three goats or cows. In America, one person can have lots of cows-thousands! And when there are a lot, they don’t have health. They give them medicine all the time.
MAJ: They don’t eat meat because the animals aren’t healthy like animals here.
ME: …Yeah sure. Also, there are people who love animals, so they don’t want to eat them. I don’t understand, because meat is so delicious!
MAJ: Does the meat taste better here or in America?
ME: I don’t know, because we don’t eat sheep much in America. Mostly cows, and chicken, and pork! (end of discussion)
While she walked me part of the way home one particularly moonlit night:
ME: The moon is beautiful tonight.
MAJ: Do you have a moon in the US?
ME: (scoffs) Yes! Of course! One world!
MAJ: (laughs) One world, different people.
ME: Exactly!
Monday, December 06, 2010
November at Post, Part the Second
Because so much happened this month, and shorter posts, like smaller bites, are easier to digest?
November 17
Tabaski has been more or less what I expected-stress, awkward moments, kids clamoring, screaming in my face for candy, a moment I almost almost wanted to start to cry when I was being ordered to take a picture of the kids because the last volunteer always took pictures of them. But when frustration is about to bubble over like that, I know I need to step back, rest and/or eat, and consider how lucky I am and how much I have. If I were in France or America right now I would certainly not be so effortlessly welcomed into people’s homes, meals and celebrations. And as I’ve been running around making promises to everyone and then trying to keep them and stressing out about it all, I think: ‘Really, what a wonderful, if still annoying and aggravating problem to have-too many friends and invitations.’ Abdou Zekeiou peed on me today, the first such christening since I’ve been in Niger. Really I’m shocked it hadn’t happened sooner. I watched Majabiya and Fatila and Farida braid intestines. I ate liver and other organs. I looked good. All in a day’s work, right?
Today threw into sharp relief a phenomenon I’ve been living here. 2 fadas, on 1 road, where I play 2 roles: at Majabiya’s I’m one of the women, which yes I am grateful for! They’ll be my in, helpful and insightful, my much appreciated window into women’s realities here. I’m pretty sure I’ll never drink that third cup of tea with Solo, Balla (pronounced ‘Blah’) and Twalé (the guys). But then at Sani’s I’m one of the guys: I eat with them, drink tea with them, chat with them about marriage, etc., and I haven’t even met most of the women in their lives (I did meet Issa and Souleymane’s older sister today). I love them-what I originally characterized as the ‘creepy’ fada has become my favorite group of friends so far, where I feel most comfortable and most welcomed (a commentary on my true creeper nature perhaps?). It’s just so interesting how different my experiences are in spending time in the two settings, so near each other.
November 18
Day 2 of the salla. I ate head mead. Twice. ‘Akwai dadi!’ (‘It’s delicious!’) I went to Hamissou’s house and saw Paddy: is it so wrong if I was just a little disappointed he hadn’t yet been served up to some Nigerians? I held a 6 day old baby (the naming ceremony is tomorrow). I saw a deformed girl (“her mother gave birth to her like that/she came out that way”). I talked about how men here like to marry girls 10 years their junior. I ragged on the French. I ate more than enough food, and didn’t see everyone but made a good showing. I’m trying (not always successfully) not to stress about pleasing everyone and running out of money (I’ve got 4 milles, ≈$8 to throw a Thanksgiving party and not starve over the next 2 weeks). I’m reminded of Irene’s mantra: “It all works out when you let it.”
November 21
Today was gloriously incongruent: I spent it resting and reading a book about Jane Austen, imagining carriage rides through the English countryside to stately manors and townhouses. I finally left my house shortly before 4pm to watch traditional Nigerien wrestling, which was exciting and sexy (ripped-as-hell wrestlers without shirts? Hell YES!). Hopefully I’m ready for the week.
November 27
Did I forget to mention that an old man gave me 50 F CFA yesterday for my dowry? “I thought I’d at least be worth a mille!” I said. (1000 F CFA≈$2) I bought some kossai (fried beans) which I gave to Hamissou and ‘Mistah’ with my ‘dowry.’ Today I made ‘yakua’ (‘hibiscus’) sauce that turned out very edible which I served with rice to my neighbors, Amadou-Mussa, Bashir, the friendly old smiler (I don’t know his name!), etc. It was nice and overdue, and I can see it becoming a tradition-every so often cooking for the guys. I really like it, cooking for people. Next up is fada Sani. I don’t know if I’m up for another Mexican feast quite yet though. Soon. Today we talked about mermaids, and debated if they existed or not, because if djinns exist…there’s a mermaid named ‘Mami Wata’ they all know about, and whom I had them draw for me. They were divided on whether or not she had arms. We also discussed marriage, as Moutare and Issa aren’t married yet but are looking, and a group of young girls came to pick up some gum to give out to their friends to invite them to the wedding in a week.
They keep asking me how long I’ll be here, and conjecturing that I’ll stay for years and years. I know I just got here, and I’ve got to get through these 2 years before the next step can be considered and determined, but this place is pretty special—who knows but Allah? Never say never. The fact is I have been immensely enjoying myself so far, even as I stress about navigating social obligations and protocols. It’s ridiculous how these guys compare to the people I met in L’Isle sur la Sorgue-there’s no comparison. Niger may be the poorest country in the world, but they have a different kind of wealth—community, family, caring. People still give a shit about each other here.
November 17
Tabaski has been more or less what I expected-stress, awkward moments, kids clamoring, screaming in my face for candy, a moment I almost almost wanted to start to cry when I was being ordered to take a picture of the kids because the last volunteer always took pictures of them. But when frustration is about to bubble over like that, I know I need to step back, rest and/or eat, and consider how lucky I am and how much I have. If I were in France or America right now I would certainly not be so effortlessly welcomed into people’s homes, meals and celebrations. And as I’ve been running around making promises to everyone and then trying to keep them and stressing out about it all, I think: ‘Really, what a wonderful, if still annoying and aggravating problem to have-too many friends and invitations.’ Abdou Zekeiou peed on me today, the first such christening since I’ve been in Niger. Really I’m shocked it hadn’t happened sooner. I watched Majabiya and Fatila and Farida braid intestines. I ate liver and other organs. I looked good. All in a day’s work, right?
Today threw into sharp relief a phenomenon I’ve been living here. 2 fadas, on 1 road, where I play 2 roles: at Majabiya’s I’m one of the women, which yes I am grateful for! They’ll be my in, helpful and insightful, my much appreciated window into women’s realities here. I’m pretty sure I’ll never drink that third cup of tea with Solo, Balla (pronounced ‘Blah’) and Twalé (the guys). But then at Sani’s I’m one of the guys: I eat with them, drink tea with them, chat with them about marriage, etc., and I haven’t even met most of the women in their lives (I did meet Issa and Souleymane’s older sister today). I love them-what I originally characterized as the ‘creepy’ fada has become my favorite group of friends so far, where I feel most comfortable and most welcomed (a commentary on my true creeper nature perhaps?). It’s just so interesting how different my experiences are in spending time in the two settings, so near each other.
November 18
Day 2 of the salla. I ate head mead. Twice. ‘Akwai dadi!’ (‘It’s delicious!’) I went to Hamissou’s house and saw Paddy: is it so wrong if I was just a little disappointed he hadn’t yet been served up to some Nigerians? I held a 6 day old baby (the naming ceremony is tomorrow). I saw a deformed girl (“her mother gave birth to her like that/she came out that way”). I talked about how men here like to marry girls 10 years their junior. I ragged on the French. I ate more than enough food, and didn’t see everyone but made a good showing. I’m trying (not always successfully) not to stress about pleasing everyone and running out of money (I’ve got 4 milles, ≈$8 to throw a Thanksgiving party and not starve over the next 2 weeks). I’m reminded of Irene’s mantra: “It all works out when you let it.”
November 21
Today was gloriously incongruent: I spent it resting and reading a book about Jane Austen, imagining carriage rides through the English countryside to stately manors and townhouses. I finally left my house shortly before 4pm to watch traditional Nigerien wrestling, which was exciting and sexy (ripped-as-hell wrestlers without shirts? Hell YES!). Hopefully I’m ready for the week.
November 27
Did I forget to mention that an old man gave me 50 F CFA yesterday for my dowry? “I thought I’d at least be worth a mille!” I said. (1000 F CFA≈$2) I bought some kossai (fried beans) which I gave to Hamissou and ‘Mistah’ with my ‘dowry.’ Today I made ‘yakua’ (‘hibiscus’) sauce that turned out very edible which I served with rice to my neighbors, Amadou-Mussa, Bashir, the friendly old smiler (I don’t know his name!), etc. It was nice and overdue, and I can see it becoming a tradition-every so often cooking for the guys. I really like it, cooking for people. Next up is fada Sani. I don’t know if I’m up for another Mexican feast quite yet though. Soon. Today we talked about mermaids, and debated if they existed or not, because if djinns exist…there’s a mermaid named ‘Mami Wata’ they all know about, and whom I had them draw for me. They were divided on whether or not she had arms. We also discussed marriage, as Moutare and Issa aren’t married yet but are looking, and a group of young girls came to pick up some gum to give out to their friends to invite them to the wedding in a week.
They keep asking me how long I’ll be here, and conjecturing that I’ll stay for years and years. I know I just got here, and I’ve got to get through these 2 years before the next step can be considered and determined, but this place is pretty special—who knows but Allah? Never say never. The fact is I have been immensely enjoying myself so far, even as I stress about navigating social obligations and protocols. It’s ridiculous how these guys compare to the people I met in L’Isle sur la Sorgue-there’s no comparison. Niger may be the poorest country in the world, but they have a different kind of wealth—community, family, caring. People still give a shit about each other here.
November at Post
November 5
I left to Zinder for 5 days and the babies I know (Azizo and Abdou-Zekeiou) doubled in size in that time!
I found myself being so moved yesterday reading Jean-Paul Sartre in Abdullah’s Terminale class; yes, writers have a responsibility to their era, their society, to move when they are called to, to speak up and out, against the wicked, for the weak, to think about our common, immediate future, but not obsess about our own legacies. Don’t concern yourself with your work’s staying power, its universality; make sure it matters, here and now. That’s all. ‘Mille neuf cents ooh la la’ –Abdullah’s way of saying 1900-something. I like it.
Yesterday I was labeled a “freethinker” by Fadji, which is her ‘polite’ way of saying ‘infidel.’ “But she believes in a God” Abdullah stuck up for me, without knowing me (or that) for sure. It was an interesting exchange-a reminder that I should always be on my guard, though I did admit that wine tastes good.
For my birthday I took cookies and crackers, homemade cupcakes, salad fixin’s and a movie (Terminator 4 and Transformers 2, among other things), baby pictures of myself (courtesy of my godmother Irene), and music to my friend Majabiya’s house. Sometimes if you want a party you’ve got to throw it yourself!
November 10
Soaking my poor little cracked footsies while drinking some wine(!) and reading a New Yorker article about Steve Carell: I can’t think of a more fabulous way to celebrate the exit stage left of Paddy! I refuse to feel anything but joy in this moment-I’ll sleep outside! I’ll get a karhi (clay jar in which to keep cold water), and a mat, and landscape, and garden, and have people over! I’m elated right now.
At least one thing is crystallizing for me so far, career-wise: economics is hella important. The economics of development is what, according to Ibrahim, I should study next. He’s got a great point. Economics is everything, the confluence of all other fields, cultures, human relations; it’s the language in which we function. But reading the New Yorker article about lithium in Bolivia, and living here in Niger, I begin to question my desire to work for the Foreign Service. Would everything about it that I want be worth giving up my autonomy? How hard would it be to always be pushing and working within the confines of official US policy, as opposed to saying and acting however I felt? Politics is complicated. But working for the ‘right’ and ‘good’ is exhausting and riddled with its own contradictions and difficulties, I’m finding out.
November 13
My 18 year old friend Souleymane pointed to a cheesy postcard picture of Haystack Rock (famous Oregon Coast landmark) with a flock of birds flying up and asked if they were pigs. WHAT?!? Living in a 99.5% Muslim country will do that to you, I guess. I drew a cute little picture of a pig and showed it to him. I told them all (the guys in my ‘fada’ or ‘loose group of guys who hang out on the corner and drink tea’) how delicious pork is and how I feel bad for them that they have to miss out, but that’s religion. Sani or someone said something and Souleymane looked at me wide-eyed and asked: “Suna chin tutu?!?” (“They eat shit?!?”) For some reason this was the funniest thing I’d heard in awhile. If I accomplish nothing else over the next 2 years, I’ll at least have taught an 18 year old what a pig looks like. These are the moments I live for!
November 16
These have been 2 crazy days. Yesterday I got a fish as a present from Haoua, saw a shirt that said ‘Harley Davidson’ on the front and ‘Harry Potter’ on the back, and watched satellite TV with some pretty progressive NGO dudes. Then I hit my finger with my frying pan I was using as a hammer. Today I went for a great run, hung out at Majabiya’s, where I didn’t get henna done but where I did take a nap after watching her divide cookie crumbs into little plastic ‘bags’ (that she made by cutting small bags into 1/4s and tying them) that she will sell for 5 F CFA (≈1 cent). Or will all just be eaten by Zeinabou. COOKIE CRUMBS?!? Are you kidding me? Then I met up with Abdullah who took me to the bar in town (guess my rep was already shot the second I didn’t cover my head and wore pants, but still), where I had a Coke, thank you. We discussed religion, politics, the UN, life in my town; he’s legit. We ate dinner at his house and ‘hung out’ at a ‘party’ some of the high school students had invited him to. We sat off to the side, being the token adults while a handful of students wandered in and out, greeting us, and music was sometimes played. The least happenin’ party ever: even by Nigerien standards it was weak sauce.
So tomorrow’s the big ‘salla’ (‘holiday’: Tabaski). I’m keeping my expectations low and will be happy if I can manage to walk around and bump into a significant majority of the people who have invited me to party with them. In any case I’m sure of one thing: that this ridiculousness that is life in Niger, [me-a mess of miscommunications, over-committing, stressing about stupid shit, a complete basketcase of emotions, pissed and awkward one minute, grateful and content the next; life-hours passed in workplaces, plans beginning to be made, a schedule being decided and not adhered to but (at least ½ the time) it all working out when I let it] will continue being as amazing and exasperating as ever!
Tuesday, November 02, 2010
Stew in a pumpkin!
I just finished reading Three Cups of Tea in my first month at post here in Niger and I was surprised at the similarities between Mortenson’s experiences in Pakistan and what I hope my work experiences will be here in Niger. While in Islamabad he’s oppressed by the heat (I feel ya’ there!), and being in a Muslim country, Islam is a part of every day of his life, from morning to night. Niger is a secular country, but 99.something% of the population is Muslim. Even though I live across the street from the big mosque in town, I only ever hear the early morning call to prayer (4:30-5am) if I’m already awake (which has happened a few times). Prayer rugs and prayer beads are everywhere, and people praying or washing themselves in preparation for prayer (ablutions!) is always going on. It threw me off when, while visiting a friend’s house, she excused herself to pray, right in front of me! I felt awkward and fell silent, but the kids around me kept babbling as usual. The people are friendly and welcoming, he drinks tea with them, he haggles and bargains and gets frustrated in the market, he goes to the tailor to have traditional clothing made, he stretches the local currency as far as it can go, girls are (supposed to be) really really sad on their wedding day…this is my life! Are we in Pakistan or Niger? There’s even Al-Queda here, present in the all-but-deserted borderlands, just like in Pakistan!
“I have seen,” she writes, “that community and a close relationship with the land can enrich human life beyond all comparison with material wealth or technological sophistication. I have learned that another way is possible.” – Helena Norberg-Hodge, Ancient Futures as quoted in Three Cups of Tea
“Haji Ali taught me to share three cups of tea, to slow down and make building relationships as important as building projects. He taught me that I had more to learn from the people I work with than I could ever hope to teach them.” – Greg Mortenson, Three Cups of Tea
The quotes above, especially the second one, are extremely applicable to my life. I’m learning so much from the Nigeriens I’ve met, about hospitality and what’s important in life, that I’m afraid at the end of 2 years when it’s added all up I’ll have gained and learned a lot more than I ever brought or imparted to them. We’ll see. If you’re wondering what my life is like, and these infrequent blog posts just aren’t doing it for you, pick up that book. I also just read Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari, in which he takes an overland trip from Cairo to Cape Town. There are some similarities (particularly when he’s in the hot dusty Muslim desert of Sudan, or scared for his life in a bush taxi), but all the countries he travels through are so different, it’s a reminder that Africa isn’t a country, it’s 54! He’s just a dirty old man sometimes, but some of the interactions he has with colorful people and the stories he hears are great. Potentially worth the read, if you’re into that kind of thing.
***
A few weeks ago a dude was giving one of my friends in town ‘Jolie’ (a nickname, I don’t know what his real name is) a pedicure, on a mat on the street. He asked me how much it would cost in the states. I said $8-$35, and even $8 (4,000 F CFA) is an inconceivable small fortune here (he probably paid 100 F CFA, or about 20 cents).
A few days ago I picked up a complet (shirt and skirt outfit) from the tailor and was horrified—the fabric has a print of little Africa shapes and the tailor had sewed the outfit with the Africas upside down! Other than that the outfit is gorgeous, and fits way better than I would have expected for him not measuring me at all.
Watching Planet Earth with Nigeriens and we see grizzly bears. “What’s that? A dog?” which sounds just ridiculous, but then I think: ‘There are no bears in Africa—these guys have no point of reference for bears.
“McThousand” – how Hamissou says ‘Mike Tyson’
“fragrant woman” – how Alassan says ‘pregnant women’
October 16
What the fuck?! Shock, numbness, gradual (attempt at) acceptance of the unacceptable, the unexplainable, the unreasonable. “Stephanie Chance passed away.” Two 15-hour bus rides and one memorial service later and Tondi’s words that night still haunt me. It still seems unreal that I will never see Steph or hear her ever again, because she’s dead. Who left who? Did she leave us or did we leave her? Did she transcend or ascend or cross over to a higher plane/the next step? Or did she stop, forever frozen in our memories and hearts at age 26, an incomplete life lived, as the rest of us live another day after another day, marching forward into a shared history that Steph is no longer a part of? I guess it depends on your outlook. What do I think? I don’t know. One day she’s just a text away, more of a potential relationship than anything, although common ground was there, looking forward to Halloween and other future shared experiences, and the next she’s completely, irrevocably unavailable. We were told to expect to confront death here in Niger, poor Niger where the dirty hungry masses get sick or starve to death all the time, where sanitation is sub-par and almost every family seems to have lost at least one kid. But how were we supposed to steel ourselves for THIS? A happy healthy one-of-us young American, with access to medicine and comprehensive health care that Nigeriens just don’t have—unforeseeable, unconceivable, unforgivable. We still don't know how she died, which is what it is. It seems to have been natural and hopefully painless. I miss her and think of her constantly. She will be an inspiration to me throughout my service here. I am not here just to ‘get through it,’ I’m here to do my best at making a difference, help as much as I can with my own two hands, passionately throw myself into the work, because why else would I bother? I need to take full advantage of every moment, every opportunity, live 100% at 100mph because if I’m not doing that, what’s the point? A life lived or a life wasted? All we have is here and now. Perspective. If I take anything away from Niger, it will be that. What’s important? What’s not? What can be lived without? (lots of things, even toilet paper) What can’t be lived without? (human connections, love, touch)
October 18
Living here is so humbling. People take joy in the simplest pleasures—being together, sweet little songs, inside jokes. They want to develop, and they deserve to, no more or less than we, and really what am I doing here? I don’t have tractors or printers and even though I know those aren’t sustainable solutions I’m wondering what I CAN do that will matter at all, and not just be for my own sake? They know their predicament, their situation, that their standard of living is low. I’m where I need to be for me right now, that much is clear. But am I where I need to be for others/people/the world? Solo said tonight that after 2 years here I’ll be able to run for mayor, I’ll be so popular. We’ll see! Seeing how people live here I feel like such a pig with all the electricity and water I suck up for only one person, and if I’m worried about my carbon footprint here…
I tasted PlumpyNut today. Not that bad. Kind of like peanut butter. I guess my friend Majabiya confused me for a malnourished African baby (how flattering!). I also ate 3 crickets. We don’t eat crickets in the US because we don’t have to: we’ve never needed to look away from our McDonald’s hamburgers for just any old source of protein that hopped by. When the cricket sellers come by the house and Majabiya buys some I wonder how much of the purchase is made because she’s legitimately hankering for some crickets and how much is because she wants to help someone who’s making a living selling crickets for crying out loud!
October 22
What were my crazy feverish dreams last night? One featured drag queens (Rocky, Dau, John Kim, heyyyyy-eeyyyyy!) and me at a Shari’s, glittered out at 6 in the morning after a wild night, ordering gooey greasy breakfast foods and drinking shots out of small tin cups—sour cream, salsa, cheese, Mexican spices, all the fixin’s, and vodka. Disgusting, or brilliant? It was basically all the things I miss most living in a Muslim country: out gays, pork products, alcohol, Mexican food, debauchery from the night before. Throw in Kucha, my mom, some close girlfriends (Alisha, Hannah, Megan, Mara hey hey!) and the scene of everything I miss from home would be complete! What a party that would be…let’s make this a reality sometime fall 2012! In the meantime, someone get on this ‘taco shot’ idea and let me know how it turns out!
Another dreamic episode played out like a movie: Sandra Bullock, on loan from the Monterey Bay Aquarium to some research station on the East Coast (let’s say Atlanta), making preparations for her next big experiment: to get impregnated by an octopus (how???? More to the point, why???). Tom Cruise goes the 20 feet from lab to tank to retrieve the octopus but loses it down a sewer drain on the way back, effectively ruining Sandy’s career (oh Tom!). She’s pissed of course, refuses to speak to him, and her girlfriends take her out for cocktails and ice cream to make her feel better. And probably pizza. This script NEEDS to be written immediately and sent to some Hollywood fatcat producers, no?
(later that day)
I’ve got Britney Spears’ “You want a piece of me?” running through my head right now. Emerging from my deathbed (okay, maybe that’s a little too diva dramatic, but still) to be berated left and right for not being around. It was great shopping with Hadiza in the market, and it’s great that I’m so welcomed at Majabiya’s, but am I a commodity to them, the oddity as friend? Life is work here and work is life. Especially in the first 3 month period everything I do, everyone I talk to is my work. When work and life are one and the same, how do you find balance? Is this what being famous is like? Cue the Britney…
October 24
Today was glorious. Emily, an RPCV back in Niger working for an NGO that builds pumps in towns and Windsong, an RPCV visiting Emily came to my town with the design of walking a few kilometers out to a little village where a PCV was posted in their day. They invited me along and I’m so glad I went. The walk out was hot but beautiful. The Lion King soundtrack was playing in my head as we walked through orchards and gardens that Emily said will be much prettier in a few months time, when it will be transformed into a Cabbage Kingdom. I can’t wait! I was enchanted. The little village was on a crest overlooking a valley. The family we were visiting (the host family of the volunteer who lived there a few years ago) was so nice and they served the best Nigerien meal I’ve eaten yet: corn tuwo with a to-die-for hibiscus sauce that I need to learn how to make (that and the peanut-buttery cucumber salad that Ousmane’s family served us have been my favorite dishes so far).
Halloween.
We made stew in a pumpkin!, (stew cooked and served in an actual pumpkin!), a recipe I got out of a cookbook my godmother Irene sent me. We also made Spicy Pineapple Zucchini Bread with pumpkin instead of zucchini. Delicious. A fall feast. I was Snooki from the Jersey Shore, and we had Daisy Duke, Elton John, a sexy gypsy, a sexy Indian princess, Lady Gaga, Prince of Persia and a chola. We danced our little hearts out. We ate a ‘proper’ French apple tart courtesy of Audrey. We celebrated the big important holiday of Halloween—my Nigerien friends are convinced it’s a big deal. My fault. Them: “Do you get the day off from work?” Me: “Uh, no. We give candy to kids.” Them: “That’s funny, because the Hausa word for candy is halawa. The fete de Halawa!” Me: “Huh.”
My birthday’s coming up in a few days. The big 2-5! A quarter of a century down, 3 more to go. My plan is to take cupcakes, cookies, and movies to Majabiya’s house—instant party! “Hey bitches, it’s my birthday! Let’s celebrate!” They will probably be a little confused, as birthdays aren't a big deal here ('I was born in '85 or '86, I'm not sure' they'll say), but it will be awesome!
“I have seen,” she writes, “that community and a close relationship with the land can enrich human life beyond all comparison with material wealth or technological sophistication. I have learned that another way is possible.” – Helena Norberg-Hodge, Ancient Futures as quoted in Three Cups of Tea
“Haji Ali taught me to share three cups of tea, to slow down and make building relationships as important as building projects. He taught me that I had more to learn from the people I work with than I could ever hope to teach them.” – Greg Mortenson, Three Cups of Tea
The quotes above, especially the second one, are extremely applicable to my life. I’m learning so much from the Nigeriens I’ve met, about hospitality and what’s important in life, that I’m afraid at the end of 2 years when it’s added all up I’ll have gained and learned a lot more than I ever brought or imparted to them. We’ll see. If you’re wondering what my life is like, and these infrequent blog posts just aren’t doing it for you, pick up that book. I also just read Paul Theroux’s Dark Star Safari, in which he takes an overland trip from Cairo to Cape Town. There are some similarities (particularly when he’s in the hot dusty Muslim desert of Sudan, or scared for his life in a bush taxi), but all the countries he travels through are so different, it’s a reminder that Africa isn’t a country, it’s 54! He’s just a dirty old man sometimes, but some of the interactions he has with colorful people and the stories he hears are great. Potentially worth the read, if you’re into that kind of thing.
***
A few weeks ago a dude was giving one of my friends in town ‘Jolie’ (a nickname, I don’t know what his real name is) a pedicure, on a mat on the street. He asked me how much it would cost in the states. I said $8-$35, and even $8 (4,000 F CFA) is an inconceivable small fortune here (he probably paid 100 F CFA, or about 20 cents).
A few days ago I picked up a complet (shirt and skirt outfit) from the tailor and was horrified—the fabric has a print of little Africa shapes and the tailor had sewed the outfit with the Africas upside down! Other than that the outfit is gorgeous, and fits way better than I would have expected for him not measuring me at all.
Watching Planet Earth with Nigeriens and we see grizzly bears. “What’s that? A dog?” which sounds just ridiculous, but then I think: ‘There are no bears in Africa—these guys have no point of reference for bears.
“McThousand” – how Hamissou says ‘Mike Tyson’
“fragrant woman” – how Alassan says ‘pregnant women’
October 16
What the fuck?! Shock, numbness, gradual (attempt at) acceptance of the unacceptable, the unexplainable, the unreasonable. “Stephanie Chance passed away.” Two 15-hour bus rides and one memorial service later and Tondi’s words that night still haunt me. It still seems unreal that I will never see Steph or hear her ever again, because she’s dead. Who left who? Did she leave us or did we leave her? Did she transcend or ascend or cross over to a higher plane/the next step? Or did she stop, forever frozen in our memories and hearts at age 26, an incomplete life lived, as the rest of us live another day after another day, marching forward into a shared history that Steph is no longer a part of? I guess it depends on your outlook. What do I think? I don’t know. One day she’s just a text away, more of a potential relationship than anything, although common ground was there, looking forward to Halloween and other future shared experiences, and the next she’s completely, irrevocably unavailable. We were told to expect to confront death here in Niger, poor Niger where the dirty hungry masses get sick or starve to death all the time, where sanitation is sub-par and almost every family seems to have lost at least one kid. But how were we supposed to steel ourselves for THIS? A happy healthy one-of-us young American, with access to medicine and comprehensive health care that Nigeriens just don’t have—unforeseeable, unconceivable, unforgivable. We still don't know how she died, which is what it is. It seems to have been natural and hopefully painless. I miss her and think of her constantly. She will be an inspiration to me throughout my service here. I am not here just to ‘get through it,’ I’m here to do my best at making a difference, help as much as I can with my own two hands, passionately throw myself into the work, because why else would I bother? I need to take full advantage of every moment, every opportunity, live 100% at 100mph because if I’m not doing that, what’s the point? A life lived or a life wasted? All we have is here and now. Perspective. If I take anything away from Niger, it will be that. What’s important? What’s not? What can be lived without? (lots of things, even toilet paper) What can’t be lived without? (human connections, love, touch)
October 18
Living here is so humbling. People take joy in the simplest pleasures—being together, sweet little songs, inside jokes. They want to develop, and they deserve to, no more or less than we, and really what am I doing here? I don’t have tractors or printers and even though I know those aren’t sustainable solutions I’m wondering what I CAN do that will matter at all, and not just be for my own sake? They know their predicament, their situation, that their standard of living is low. I’m where I need to be for me right now, that much is clear. But am I where I need to be for others/people/the world? Solo said tonight that after 2 years here I’ll be able to run for mayor, I’ll be so popular. We’ll see! Seeing how people live here I feel like such a pig with all the electricity and water I suck up for only one person, and if I’m worried about my carbon footprint here…
I tasted PlumpyNut today. Not that bad. Kind of like peanut butter. I guess my friend Majabiya confused me for a malnourished African baby (how flattering!). I also ate 3 crickets. We don’t eat crickets in the US because we don’t have to: we’ve never needed to look away from our McDonald’s hamburgers for just any old source of protein that hopped by. When the cricket sellers come by the house and Majabiya buys some I wonder how much of the purchase is made because she’s legitimately hankering for some crickets and how much is because she wants to help someone who’s making a living selling crickets for crying out loud!
October 22
What were my crazy feverish dreams last night? One featured drag queens (Rocky, Dau, John Kim, heyyyyy-eeyyyyy!) and me at a Shari’s, glittered out at 6 in the morning after a wild night, ordering gooey greasy breakfast foods and drinking shots out of small tin cups—sour cream, salsa, cheese, Mexican spices, all the fixin’s, and vodka. Disgusting, or brilliant? It was basically all the things I miss most living in a Muslim country: out gays, pork products, alcohol, Mexican food, debauchery from the night before. Throw in Kucha, my mom, some close girlfriends (Alisha, Hannah, Megan, Mara hey hey!) and the scene of everything I miss from home would be complete! What a party that would be…let’s make this a reality sometime fall 2012! In the meantime, someone get on this ‘taco shot’ idea and let me know how it turns out!
Another dreamic episode played out like a movie: Sandra Bullock, on loan from the Monterey Bay Aquarium to some research station on the East Coast (let’s say Atlanta), making preparations for her next big experiment: to get impregnated by an octopus (how???? More to the point, why???). Tom Cruise goes the 20 feet from lab to tank to retrieve the octopus but loses it down a sewer drain on the way back, effectively ruining Sandy’s career (oh Tom!). She’s pissed of course, refuses to speak to him, and her girlfriends take her out for cocktails and ice cream to make her feel better. And probably pizza. This script NEEDS to be written immediately and sent to some Hollywood fatcat producers, no?
(later that day)
I’ve got Britney Spears’ “You want a piece of me?” running through my head right now. Emerging from my deathbed (okay, maybe that’s a little too diva dramatic, but still) to be berated left and right for not being around. It was great shopping with Hadiza in the market, and it’s great that I’m so welcomed at Majabiya’s, but am I a commodity to them, the oddity as friend? Life is work here and work is life. Especially in the first 3 month period everything I do, everyone I talk to is my work. When work and life are one and the same, how do you find balance? Is this what being famous is like? Cue the Britney…
October 24
Today was glorious. Emily, an RPCV back in Niger working for an NGO that builds pumps in towns and Windsong, an RPCV visiting Emily came to my town with the design of walking a few kilometers out to a little village where a PCV was posted in their day. They invited me along and I’m so glad I went. The walk out was hot but beautiful. The Lion King soundtrack was playing in my head as we walked through orchards and gardens that Emily said will be much prettier in a few months time, when it will be transformed into a Cabbage Kingdom. I can’t wait! I was enchanted. The little village was on a crest overlooking a valley. The family we were visiting (the host family of the volunteer who lived there a few years ago) was so nice and they served the best Nigerien meal I’ve eaten yet: corn tuwo with a to-die-for hibiscus sauce that I need to learn how to make (that and the peanut-buttery cucumber salad that Ousmane’s family served us have been my favorite dishes so far).
Halloween.
We made stew in a pumpkin!, (stew cooked and served in an actual pumpkin!), a recipe I got out of a cookbook my godmother Irene sent me. We also made Spicy Pineapple Zucchini Bread with pumpkin instead of zucchini. Delicious. A fall feast. I was Snooki from the Jersey Shore, and we had Daisy Duke, Elton John, a sexy gypsy, a sexy Indian princess, Lady Gaga, Prince of Persia and a chola. We danced our little hearts out. We ate a ‘proper’ French apple tart courtesy of Audrey. We celebrated the big important holiday of Halloween—my Nigerien friends are convinced it’s a big deal. My fault. Them: “Do you get the day off from work?” Me: “Uh, no. We give candy to kids.” Them: “That’s funny, because the Hausa word for candy is halawa. The fete de Halawa!” Me: “Huh.”
My birthday’s coming up in a few days. The big 2-5! A quarter of a century down, 3 more to go. My plan is to take cupcakes, cookies, and movies to Majabiya’s house—instant party! “Hey bitches, it’s my birthday! Let’s celebrate!” They will probably be a little confused, as birthdays aren't a big deal here ('I was born in '85 or '86, I'm not sure' they'll say), but it will be awesome!
Tuesday, October 12, 2010
Zinder and Post
It's been pretty crazy here in Niger the last couple weeks. Here are a few vignettes that stick out in my mind:
-the 7 of us new Zinder volunteers getting in after dark after a 15-hour bus ride, expecting to be met by a car to transport us and all our stuff to the hostel. Instead, current Team Z volunteers roll up on the backs of motorcycles, shove helmets into our hands and graciously take some of our things from us (Allah bless Alex for taking charge of my big too-heavy-to-lift bag and getting it to the hostel somehow).
-a book in the Zinder hostel about Park W (in SW Niger, so named because the Niger River curves around in a 'w' shape) informed me that there are MANATEES in Niger!! Finding this out made my week. Now whenever you think of Niger you can think of the desert, Al Queda, me and manatees! That sounds like an epic combination for either an awesomely bad reality TV show or perhaps an awesomely bad short story I'll write! Or maybe just a song...I've already got 3 tracks I'm going to write for my Niger-themed album I'll be putting out: 'Snacks for the Bus,''Snacks on the Bus,' and the sure-to-be #1 hit, 'COUCH STORE!' Get excited.
-my ville is BEAUTIFUL! There are tree-lined avenues and a road that goes off into the bush which I run on some mornings (and greet people as I go, who remark that I'm late if I don't go at the same time every day).
-meeting coworkers at the Inspection (think school district office), middle/high school, and youth center, and getting ideas for projects. One man with whom I hope to work was having a very open conversation with me about the crazy things he did back in college. He drank beer! He danced! He ate pork and thought it was delicious! But now he's an old man, so he doesn't do any of that anymore.
-i went walking on my own one day and met a 'fada' or group of guys who hang out at the same time every day and drink tea. They were really nice and the main dude invited me in to meet his wife, and I hung out with her for awhile. She offered me Plumpy Nut, which is basically a bag full of fat and good things for malnourished babies, which is given out by an NGO. An African offering me a nutrition supplement?!? ...I politely declined ('Bani bukata': 'I don't need').
-Paddy and Mickey, the dog and cat who live with me, are helpful and aggravating at the same time. They're cute, they kill rats and mice, but they also eat my sauce packets and get in the way. To keep or not to keep? That is the question...
-Taking a bush taxi in Niger is always a crowded adventure. Last Friday I took a bush taxi with a handful of nice Nigeriens and no less than 55 pumpkins! They fell on our heads so we put them under our feet and all I could do was make faces at the 7 year old girl to make her laugh. Scared 'Is-this-pumpkin-going-to-fall-on-my-head-again?' faces.
-Stephanie. We lost a bright spirit last week who will be deeply missed. Stephanie was loud, funny and loved Chili's, breakfast burritos and snacks on the bus! Team Z was going to make a Twilight parody and she had already cast herself as Bella, since she was from Arizona. It's been a surreal experience losing her so suddenly, dealing with the reality that we'll never see or laugh with her again. I'm so grateful we were allowed to come together in Niamey to support each other and celebrate her life. Our thoughts are with her family and friends back in the states now, and her energy will be an inspiration to me throughout my service here in Niger.
-Speaking of service, I talked to my brother for 2 minutes today and got some great news: he's not re-enlisting! I would have supported him in whatever he chose to do, but I think I'm allowed a sigh of relief that come next April he'll be back in Oregon!
I'm beginning the multi-day trek back to post tomorrow: 15-hour bus ride, rest day in Zinder, another probably-ridiculous bush taxi ride out to post. Life at post is full of awkward moments and miscommunications, but little by little ('sannu sannu!') it will get better, more comfortable, and become my home.
-the 7 of us new Zinder volunteers getting in after dark after a 15-hour bus ride, expecting to be met by a car to transport us and all our stuff to the hostel. Instead, current Team Z volunteers roll up on the backs of motorcycles, shove helmets into our hands and graciously take some of our things from us (Allah bless Alex for taking charge of my big too-heavy-to-lift bag and getting it to the hostel somehow).
-a book in the Zinder hostel about Park W (in SW Niger, so named because the Niger River curves around in a 'w' shape) informed me that there are MANATEES in Niger!! Finding this out made my week. Now whenever you think of Niger you can think of the desert, Al Queda, me and manatees! That sounds like an epic combination for either an awesomely bad reality TV show or perhaps an awesomely bad short story I'll write! Or maybe just a song...I've already got 3 tracks I'm going to write for my Niger-themed album I'll be putting out: 'Snacks for the Bus,''Snacks on the Bus,' and the sure-to-be #1 hit, 'COUCH STORE!' Get excited.
-my ville is BEAUTIFUL! There are tree-lined avenues and a road that goes off into the bush which I run on some mornings (and greet people as I go, who remark that I'm late if I don't go at the same time every day).
-meeting coworkers at the Inspection (think school district office), middle/high school, and youth center, and getting ideas for projects. One man with whom I hope to work was having a very open conversation with me about the crazy things he did back in college. He drank beer! He danced! He ate pork and thought it was delicious! But now he's an old man, so he doesn't do any of that anymore.
-i went walking on my own one day and met a 'fada' or group of guys who hang out at the same time every day and drink tea. They were really nice and the main dude invited me in to meet his wife, and I hung out with her for awhile. She offered me Plumpy Nut, which is basically a bag full of fat and good things for malnourished babies, which is given out by an NGO. An African offering me a nutrition supplement?!? ...I politely declined ('Bani bukata': 'I don't need').
-Paddy and Mickey, the dog and cat who live with me, are helpful and aggravating at the same time. They're cute, they kill rats and mice, but they also eat my sauce packets and get in the way. To keep or not to keep? That is the question...
-Taking a bush taxi in Niger is always a crowded adventure. Last Friday I took a bush taxi with a handful of nice Nigeriens and no less than 55 pumpkins! They fell on our heads so we put them under our feet and all I could do was make faces at the 7 year old girl to make her laugh. Scared 'Is-this-pumpkin-going-to-fall-on-my-head-again?' faces.
-Stephanie. We lost a bright spirit last week who will be deeply missed. Stephanie was loud, funny and loved Chili's, breakfast burritos and snacks on the bus! Team Z was going to make a Twilight parody and she had already cast herself as Bella, since she was from Arizona. It's been a surreal experience losing her so suddenly, dealing with the reality that we'll never see or laugh with her again. I'm so grateful we were allowed to come together in Niamey to support each other and celebrate her life. Our thoughts are with her family and friends back in the states now, and her energy will be an inspiration to me throughout my service here in Niger.
-Speaking of service, I talked to my brother for 2 minutes today and got some great news: he's not re-enlisting! I would have supported him in whatever he chose to do, but I think I'm allowed a sigh of relief that come next April he'll be back in Oregon!
I'm beginning the multi-day trek back to post tomorrow: 15-hour bus ride, rest day in Zinder, another probably-ridiculous bush taxi ride out to post. Life at post is full of awkward moments and miscommunications, but little by little ('sannu sannu!') it will get better, more comfortable, and become my home.
Thursday, September 23, 2010
"Ee, muna iyawa!"
I swore in today, which means I'm officially a Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger! I gave a speech in Hausa in front of dignitaries, fellow Peace Corps Volunteers and TV cameras on the lawn of the Ambassador's residence (minus the Ambassador herself, who arrives early next month...I guess they had to wait awhile for the Senate to confirm Obama's pick, or something). I quoted Obama: "yes we can" in Hausa is "Ee, muna iyawa!" I also talked about camels and giraffes. A woman came up to me afterwards and asked if I'd studied Hausa before training. I basically laughed in her face and said: "Are you kidding? I had never even HEARD of Hausa before I got my invitation to come to Niger!" Later, in the taxi on the way to lunch, we heard excerpts from Lindsay's speech in French on the radio! We're practically famous, which is exactly why I came here! I also looked great: George the tailor did a stellar job on my purple and yellow sea anemone complet get-up...pictures will be posted eventually, I'm sure.
A few days ago we had a GAD (Gender and Development) auction, in which American foods and other various sundries were auctioned off to us and other guests to raise money for projects that address (shocker) gender and development! I went nuts, because they let us buy things on credit (the American way of life) that we'll get to pay off over the next 3 months. I bought various toiletries, (including a product that was invented by an OSU grad, Oregon represent!), various taco and BBQ spice packets (which I also received from my lovely mom in a package the VERY NEXT DAY, but oh well, it was for the women and children!), a beer opener in the shape of a giraffe, a hammock, and a weekend in another volunteer's town complete with fried cheese sticks and beer, for me and a friend (Will, not even a question). I also drank delicious but inexplicably bright blue margaritas and ate delicious enchiladas-overall it was an excellent evening at the American Rec Center (and we randomly caught episodes of Jeopardy and the Daily Show on the Armed Forces Network...SCORE)!
Tonight we're having a big feast (I hear there's going to be ice cream and cheese, among other rare delicacies) and then on Saturday I take the 12+ hour bus-ride to Zinder and then on to my post a few days later. It's been a fun last week, and the celebratory times aren't over yet, but I'm SOOOO excited to finally get out to my post and start doing all the things Valerie (Country Director) and Tondi (training manager) and the Deputy Chief of Mission of the US Embassy said we would do in their speeches today!
Other Fun Hausa Phrases:
Dommi ba haka ba? - 'Pourquoi pas?' or 'Why not?'
Haka duniya take (pronounced "tah-kay") - 'C'est la vie,' or 'That's Life'
A few days ago we had a GAD (Gender and Development) auction, in which American foods and other various sundries were auctioned off to us and other guests to raise money for projects that address (shocker) gender and development! I went nuts, because they let us buy things on credit (the American way of life) that we'll get to pay off over the next 3 months. I bought various toiletries, (including a product that was invented by an OSU grad, Oregon represent!), various taco and BBQ spice packets (which I also received from my lovely mom in a package the VERY NEXT DAY, but oh well, it was for the women and children!), a beer opener in the shape of a giraffe, a hammock, and a weekend in another volunteer's town complete with fried cheese sticks and beer, for me and a friend (Will, not even a question). I also drank delicious but inexplicably bright blue margaritas and ate delicious enchiladas-overall it was an excellent evening at the American Rec Center (and we randomly caught episodes of Jeopardy and the Daily Show on the Armed Forces Network...SCORE)!
Tonight we're having a big feast (I hear there's going to be ice cream and cheese, among other rare delicacies) and then on Saturday I take the 12+ hour bus-ride to Zinder and then on to my post a few days later. It's been a fun last week, and the celebratory times aren't over yet, but I'm SOOOO excited to finally get out to my post and start doing all the things Valerie (Country Director) and Tondi (training manager) and the Deputy Chief of Mission of the US Embassy said we would do in their speeches today!
Other Fun Hausa Phrases:
Dommi ba haka ba? - 'Pourquoi pas?' or 'Why not?'
Haka duniya take (pronounced "tah-kay") - 'C'est la vie,' or 'That's Life'
Sunday, September 19, 2010
So close yet so far!
I swear in later this week, so then I'll (finally!) be an official volunteer and headed out to my post. Until then I've got a speech in Hausa to write, an outfit to pick up at the tailor (I feel like I'm on an episode of Say Yes to the Dress, but I never got to try on, let alone see the floor model, I just drew a picture and explained what I wanted to him...there might be tears...), an Obama burger to eat at some restaurant in Niamey, and some heavy duty hanging out with my fellow trainees to do, before we separate and disperse across the country. So I've got a busy but exciting week ahead of me. I can't wait!
Sunday, September 05, 2010
Cikin (pronounced "chicken") Niger
Since internet access is sporatic and fleeting, I've decided to copy some excerpts from my journal from over the past month or so. This is what I've been thinking, feeling and doing of late.
August 4th
I told Biiftu (my roommate in Hamdallaye) last night I'm having more downs here than I expected, but it's just the way it is. Nutrition is so fragile here, traditions are so different, I'm a fish out of water almost every second of every day.
August 5th
Heather is a godsend for her New Yorkers: they're like a Nalgene of water on a hot Nigerien day-a gulp of culture and civilization and an entirely different reality than what I'm living right now. Oh hell yeah. I'm going to ask Bawa tomorrow for a more 'liberal' post (relatively speaking), if possible, as the only consideration I'm concerned about. We'll see what happens.
August 11th
So much has happened, is happening. I just read an amazing article in the 'journeys' issue of The New Yorker about a National Geographic photographer in Algeria. The desert is a beautiful and poetic place, and I'm feeling so good about being here and going to my post. I'm so relieved! My placement sounds PERFECT for me, and I can't wait to get out there and see it and be in it! I'm sad that Will (my best friend in PST, pre-service training) is so far away, but it's hard to be sad when I'm so excited for my post. I'm riding a great high right now, but I know saying 'good-bye' or 'see you later' or 'a la prochaine' to him is going to be hard when it happens. It's another layer of challenge here. I've got two wonderful beautiful years here in this hot dusty edge-of-the-known, edge-of-the-cared-about wild and wooly place. Two years to continue Kira's projects, start my own, build relationships, see and do, struggle, learn about Islam, travel...
Hamdallaye (the training site) feels familiar, it's a different place to me than it was a few days ago, a few weeks ago. 'This Peace Corps thing' feels different than it did a few days or weeks ago. I'm reassured about my post and can't WAIT to see it, and Cindy. This is really real. Zinder region! It already feels like it's zooming by. A mosque at Ground Zero? What's the big deal? Who cares? Niger is going to change me. It already is. I push back, I resist. I give and accept. Hopefully I'll find a good balance. Between integration and individuality. Between men and women. Between Hausa and French. Between Kira's projects and my own. Between Nigeriens and PCVs and friends at home. Balance of life and work. Social, mental and physical health. Going and coming, being, doing, seeing, learning, sharing, reading, listening. This, Niger, my post, feels so good and right right now. I'm glad I went to France first. A baby step. I'm glad I've done and lived what I have up until now. I feel ready, excited, peaceful, smooth. I hope I feel like Kira does at the end-jealous of the next person...
The moon continues across the sky, waxing and waning, no matter how up or down, hot or cold, content or unsatisfied, anxious or at peace we are in our lives. That's a beautiful thing. Why do we (Americans) live so much of our lives inside? Disconnected from nature and the flow and rhythm of life. That is something I want to 'learn' or 'do' in Niger, if such things are possible.
August 13th (?)
We have an 'exciting' weekend at Bisa Doutchi (what we call the training site in Hamdallaye because it's on a hill and Bisa Doutchi literally means 'on top of the hill') ahead of us, as site visits have been postponed due to some sort of security issue in the Maradi region. I'm glad they're looking out for us, but sad it'll be that much longer until I get to see my village. Everything's attitude: if one were to look on this as a 2 year stretch of 'withouts' (e.g. without family and friends, internet access, comforts of home such as toilet paper, AC, etc. etc.) it could be a pretty long and trying experience. BUT, after reading that beautiful article in The New Yorker, I was reminded of how INCREDIBLE this is and can be. I'm in the desert, in nearly the middle of Africa, braving crazy weather and elements, conservative customs and even a strange language to help a little bit, learn a little bit, be a little bit. How many people get an opportunity like this, to explore the edge of 'civil'-ization, one's own limits in such an extreme environment, and maybe even the big questions of life in a simpler, pastoral, pittoresque setting? I could be even crazier, go even further, venture further off the beaten path...anything is possible. I dare myself to be more daring. I've been safe a lot in my life. Niger's pretty exciting, evidently, so I'll do this before I get to any of the next craziness.
August the next day
While frustrating to be at summer camp with other Americans and 'Friends' and 'Sex and the City' rather than at site (or en route), today has still managed to be excellent. Volleyball tournament, another New Yorker from Heather, food and pause snack all day long (we have a pause at 10:00am and 3:30 or 4:00pm where we get tea and food), and a truly impressive talent show, with some tea and cards inbetween made for a not-so-bad day at Bisa Doutchi. Lindsay and my rendition of 'Elephant Love Medley' earned us 'Most Hilarious' and Janice, Elise, Heather and Mariah were so sincere and sweet in sharing their talents. Tomorrow we've got a game of Capture the Flag planned, as well as running, boot camp a la Mason, and probably more yoga, possibly led by me. We're creatively filling our time and tonight at the dance party, (impromptu right after the talent show, of course) I really felt endeared and connected to this bunch of randos. Tondi thinks the talent show should be a mandatory scheduled activity for future stages, and I felt so impressed with those who shared of themselves so honestly, and like a cohesive group who was making the most of an unexpected standfast weekend at Bisa Doutchi. I thought about me as an individual, who signed up for this experience on my own, and now find myself with a hodgepodge group of people with different skills and talents, interests, hometowns, viewpoints and expectations for our time in Niger, but it works. The one main thing we all have in common is that we were crazy and masochistic enough to sign up for this and get on the plane. And soon it WILL be a largely individualistic endeavor (if we ever get out to our posts, that is!), so I'm working hard to downplay the disparities and glean as many good vibes, fun times, inspiration (Buddhist book and future discussion with Mackenzie!) and ridiculous memories (sitting on Mason while he recited a poem?!?) while this 'family' is stil all together.
August 16th
No site visit! A very hot day and stupid, practically pointless language activities are driving me to the edge. But, 'sai hankuri' ('have patience' in Hausa). This is a setback, the first big one, requiring patience and flexibility-a useful exercise in expecting the unexpected, in things not working out as planned. This is part of it, dirty clothes, lots of luggage, delays, dragging myself to language classes, working through difficult days. Life here is a balance, as I'm learning. I need to work on the cynicism/genuineness scale, as I tend too frequently to the former, as well as the pushing/pulling scale: when should I conform to cultural rules and when do I push back and stand my ground? Ramadan has been schooling me in this delicate dance. I'm so grateful for some of the other stagieres (trainees) with whom I can speak frankly, vent to, lean on, be snarky with and have inside jokes. It will be interesting to see the landscape of our stage by In-Service Training (in January)-if cliques still stand to some degree, if regions have gotten tight, if some friendships are as strong and special as ever...Erin and I are discussing fitness challenges (and other, e.g. cooking) that we can use to motivate us in our first 3 months alone at post. 'Alone'...I can't wait. But I won't really be: I'll have a whole town to get to know. As sexist, racist and xenophobic as the 60's Peace Corps book was, they had a genuine passion for their work and the people of Manta which resulted in a lot of concrete projects getting done during their service. Keeping the right scope and perspective will be a challenge-staying focused and realistic at post.
August 19th
Language Immersion is kicking our asses. Hmm, not true. Getting tossed out into Lisa's town without necessary equipment is throwing us for a loop. For the most part we're being good sports about it, looking on this as a really intense camping trip or just another test-are we really cut out for this? Can we really be here for the next 2 years? It's insane how fast I can go up and down here. Being mobbed by kids fighting over my hand as Lisa and I looked for Sprites in the heat of the day while on the verge of dehydration and didn't find them (Ramadannnn!!!!!) was definitely a low point. Going out later to buy rice, pasta, couscous and sugar and having exact change was so AWESOME! It sounds dumb but I was practically giddy. And then we made breakfast burritos for dinner. One tortilla vaguely looked like Africa and the 'insides' (onions, tomatos, hot peppers, tomato paste, eggs, 'cheese', various spices) looked like vomit but tasted so good! We all worked together and I felt so accomplished. Africa, throw your worst at me: bugs as big as my fist, no latrine for another day or so, going on my 3rd day without a shower, nosy kids, ridiculous heat, mosquito bites, no water filter, monsoon rains, puddles and mud and cars getting (almost) stuck, 12-hour cramped-as-hell busrides with hardly any stops and a woman sitting in the aisle next to me, across 'roads' which sometimes didn't merit that designation...BRING IT ON! We've decided on Madonna for our song competition entry and things are looking up. I wonder how everyone else is doing...all I know is that my Nigerien mantra stands: "If I can do this, I can do ANYTHING!" Stephanie pointed out today that it's been EXACTLY 6 weeks since we arrived in Niger and it's exactly 5 weeks until Swear In. Time is truly flying, so I must be having fun. But seriously, 6 weeks?!?!? The days are long but the weeks are blinks.
August 20th
We ate like kings today. Onions and garlic and tomatos and tomato paste and pasta for lunch; curry potatoes and squash and onion and coconut milk and couscous for dinner; coconut milk crepes and nutella and bananas for dessert! Lisa's lucky to have a cookbook handy, and I feel so competent and capable in the kitchen, though we did burn some of the couscous. I think I'll pull a Julie and Julia and get my grubby hands on a PCV Niger cookbook and work my way through all the recipes over the course of the next 2 years. WAY more hard core than Julie was! The heat is hard here: it's hard to concentrate in our Hausa classes but I need to. We just drank tea by the mosque with one of the Chef du Canton's 60 children...he's had maybe 8 wives in his life because when they die or get too old he gets another one, never having more than 4 at a time though, according to Islamic law. Amazing. I'm finding myself having a strange middle attitude when it comes to discussing the differences between Niger and America. FIrst of all it's difficult because America is never one thing: sure MOST families only have 2-3 kids, but there are always exceptions (the Duggars, for instance). Secondly, out of a tendency to avoid offending our hosts, and a tendency towards multicultural attitudes, I find myself agreeing with (at least outwardly) the 'Nigerien' way of life (e.g. multiple wives), and I'm shocked and appalled by Lisa's frankness (ha, Lisa Frank!) in regards to these things ("babu kyau" or "not cool!"). But I end up being shocked at my own complacency. Am I just a yes person? To what extent will I just go with the flow in order not to make waves? I guess that'll be teased out over the next 2 years...then I got all embarassed and demur when the mayor asked me whiy I didn't fast today...for some reason I didn't want to say the simplest answer, that I'm not Muslim. Probably because I didn't want to open a potentially hazardous conversation topic as a guest in Lisa's town and with so little Hausa under my belt. Hopefully I will become skilled in small talk and diffusing such situations. Cikin Hausa. Insha'Allah! I'm the dirtiest I've ever been in my life. Life is enhanced here. Emotions are magnified and I'm reminded every day in small ways that I'm alive, that I'm a human being on this planet. Sitting at tea, attempting to converse with Sani, Ilia, Konate, Lisa, Stephanie and Kimie I thought: I can do this. I can learn this language and have these conversations and forge these friendships and live this strange new communal life for the next 2 years. It's completely different than what I know-people don't retreat into their own homes, disparaging of human contact outside of work for an evening of mindnumbing television here. They sit together and talk together, about anything or nothing. They work hard as hell to accomplish basic daily tasks (like feeding, cleaning, caring for, washing, etc.) but look out for each other and get up in each others' business all the time. Every day is going to present new challenges but I'm still stoked on it all. I'm so privileged to have the time and knowhow and desire to write, this or anything, and I want to make sure I do. I wonder if there are any stories or writers in the Hausa language? I'm so fascinated by people I've met (the 93-year old Chef du Canton with 60 kids and 8 wives) or heard about (Konate's grandma lived to be 100) and I wonder if and how these stories are being told and/or shared. I wonder if there's some sort of project in this...
August 21st
The food we've been eating is so wonderful, and it's so wonderful to be preparing it for ourselves that I feel I need to chronicle all of our meals. This morning: oatmeal with peanuts, dried apricots, honey, cinnamon and dried cranberries. Lunch was just leftover snacks because it was too hot to move let alone cook. Dinner was prepared for us by Sani's wife and brought to our house: cornmeal and meat sauce. Little by little, this language will come. Discussions on development yield interesting results: is the work we'll do here futile? Peace Corps' been here for almost 50 years: has it done any good? Is 'sustainable' possible? What do I want to get out of this experience, and how can I make that happen? The weather is awe-inspiring, how insanely hot it can be in the afternoon and how gorgeous lightning in a cloud can be, and is. Captivating. I'm plugging into something real here, or I'm going to. Community, 'the simple life', humans' natural state, or closer to it than life in the United States. Is the crazy technologically advanced way of life in the US unnatural? Are humans living out our destiny, improving and evolving to a higher state, a better intimation of ourselves? Or are we foresaking some essential primal part of our being, becoming too comfortable and consequently losing out in some way? I can't think of a better way to meditate on this topic than to live in a hu in Africa for 2 years! And as hard as I push back against Islam (fasting? 4 wives?!?!?) I can't believe the mosque debate that's apparently raging at home. I would completely 100% be on the Islam side of that debate. Hello! I wonder how Nigeriens would react to the fact that this is an issue in the US.
August 22nd
This morning we went to a naming ceremony. I held the 1-week old doll-like baby and a woman offered me her baby (5 year old son, maybe it wasn't even hers) to take to America with me. I think. I barely understand any Hausa but it's getting better, little by little. It's hard to be motivated (the heat! the French!) here. But I feel great about being here. I was having good conversations with guys tonight while we drank tea. I'm reading a crazy book right now. That's all.
August 24th
Food! We had lentil 'burgers' with sweet potato fries tonight. Next time we need to let the lentils cook a little longer. Spaghetti and tomato sauce for lunch and falafel (!) last night in the most delicious (big and thick) tortillas I've made to date. Yesterday for lunch we had soup and bread (hot soup on a hot day = not my fave). The day before that we had the best egg sandwiches: egg, onion, Laughing Cow...mmm! Food is and will be a passion of mine here. Ironic because my choices are so limited here, and I just left the land o' plenty. If I can cook delicious meals here, I can cook anywhere!
August 25th
Weird things: arguably some of the poorest and hungriest people in the world fasting for a month to remember people who are poorer and hungrier than them, and to be grateful. WTF? Souley introducing Lisa and I to his 2 wives and multiple children. He grabbed what looked like a 9 year old girl by the shoulder and asked one of his wives: "Which one is this?" They've got a different relationship to death here. If you could have 2 wives, would you?
Today was hard. Tromping around the whole town in the heat of the day, getting dehydrated, I was in a bitter mood. I can get so ugly when I'm angry. It will pass, but today was hard, and helpful-but-in-the-way Nigeriens didn't help my mood. We made an AMAZING pizza for dinner though. I'm so impressed by myself in the kitchen, and I'm only going to get better. A life goal while I'm here. Get in shape, learn to cook, read a lot, fiction and non-fiction and periodicals-all these goals are so incongrous with my surroundings. It's hard to reconcile realities-that of Niger and that of the US, my reality and that of my neighbors' here in Niger-visiting the Chef du Canton's house (compound) today, it was so vivid how poor these people are, since his is probably the nicest house in the village and surrounding areas. He's local government yet his house is falling apart. And multiple wives-I really need to meditate on that. How do I respect my hosts and friends here while respecting/explaining my own point of view? What is my point of view, and why? Things get so topsy turvy turned around here. Two wives is bad. Because...do I have an answer for that? This is weird. It's a trip.
August 28th
Should I be more worried for the moment we're sent off to our posts? What will my daily activities be? Who will be my friends? Will I continue to think so much about what comes next (after Peace Corps)? I really need to just focus on being here, now. Learn and speak this crazy little language, in this dusty little country. I wonder what I will think about Niger and Nigeriens in...6 months. I'm walking the line between giving a shit and not being too hopeful about anything. We'll see how that changes as I get to know a town and the people who live in it. My post.
Sexy is dead here. I would LOVE to see an editorial fashion photo shoot done in Niger: slinky 'sexy' models dripping in haute couture surrounded by filth, poverty, children, cows, trash, mud,hard core Nigerien women pounding millet...like WTF? Such extremes, that some people have the money to go to the Louis Vuitton store on the Champs Elysee and drop a couple hundred euro for an unnecessary necessity like a wallet or a belt or a weekend bag, and some people want to have 20 kids because they plan on 10 dying. Fair? No. Fabulous? Fuck yes, grotesquely so.
September 1st
Yesterday everything became right again. Just sitting next to Will on the bus made me feel good. (Also he told me that the Irish Red Cross is in Zinder ville! I don't know how he found that out but I'm not questioning it)! So there's that. Then we watched a bunch of Glee and saw giraffes, the first ones I've seen here yet!!! They were so majestic and unexpected and unassuming and wild and so perfectly situated towards the end of a long day and a long journey (the whole of Language Immersion, really) that they portended nothing but good omens of good things to come. I'm still so blown away that last night we learned that Biiftu's post is our host family in Hamdallaye's hometown! Will and I will make it work, despite the distance.
September 3rd
We won the oreo cream pie that Jenelle made! I'll never be able to listen to Madonna's 'Holiday' in the same way again. For the next 2 years I'll never hear the end of 'Shakatawa! Babu layhee!' (roughly translates to 'Party! No problem!')
This is (sort of) a solo adventure. Meaning that I'm ready to get to my post and start figuring it out, no drama, no living on top of each other, no more LPIs (language proficiency tests) or mostly-stupid activities or sitting around watching movies because we don't know what else to do with ourselves. This was part of their plan: get us so sick of each other and being treated like we're 5 that we practically BOLT to our posts. Talking with Laouali (my supervisor) today I feel so excited and ready! I have project ideas and I'm ready to get out into the town and talk with people and have MY OWN TOWN! Does that sound selfish or lonesome or ridiculous? I think I'm exactly where they want me to be.
That's it for now. We Swear In (and become official volunteers) in less than 3 weeks!
August 4th
I told Biiftu (my roommate in Hamdallaye) last night I'm having more downs here than I expected, but it's just the way it is. Nutrition is so fragile here, traditions are so different, I'm a fish out of water almost every second of every day.
August 5th
Heather is a godsend for her New Yorkers: they're like a Nalgene of water on a hot Nigerien day-a gulp of culture and civilization and an entirely different reality than what I'm living right now. Oh hell yeah. I'm going to ask Bawa tomorrow for a more 'liberal' post (relatively speaking), if possible, as the only consideration I'm concerned about. We'll see what happens.
August 11th
So much has happened, is happening. I just read an amazing article in the 'journeys' issue of The New Yorker about a National Geographic photographer in Algeria. The desert is a beautiful and poetic place, and I'm feeling so good about being here and going to my post. I'm so relieved! My placement sounds PERFECT for me, and I can't wait to get out there and see it and be in it! I'm sad that Will (my best friend in PST, pre-service training) is so far away, but it's hard to be sad when I'm so excited for my post. I'm riding a great high right now, but I know saying 'good-bye' or 'see you later' or 'a la prochaine' to him is going to be hard when it happens. It's another layer of challenge here. I've got two wonderful beautiful years here in this hot dusty edge-of-the-known, edge-of-the-cared-about wild and wooly place. Two years to continue Kira's projects, start my own, build relationships, see and do, struggle, learn about Islam, travel...
Hamdallaye (the training site) feels familiar, it's a different place to me than it was a few days ago, a few weeks ago. 'This Peace Corps thing' feels different than it did a few days or weeks ago. I'm reassured about my post and can't WAIT to see it, and Cindy. This is really real. Zinder region! It already feels like it's zooming by. A mosque at Ground Zero? What's the big deal? Who cares? Niger is going to change me. It already is. I push back, I resist. I give and accept. Hopefully I'll find a good balance. Between integration and individuality. Between men and women. Between Hausa and French. Between Kira's projects and my own. Between Nigeriens and PCVs and friends at home. Balance of life and work. Social, mental and physical health. Going and coming, being, doing, seeing, learning, sharing, reading, listening. This, Niger, my post, feels so good and right right now. I'm glad I went to France first. A baby step. I'm glad I've done and lived what I have up until now. I feel ready, excited, peaceful, smooth. I hope I feel like Kira does at the end-jealous of the next person...
The moon continues across the sky, waxing and waning, no matter how up or down, hot or cold, content or unsatisfied, anxious or at peace we are in our lives. That's a beautiful thing. Why do we (Americans) live so much of our lives inside? Disconnected from nature and the flow and rhythm of life. That is something I want to 'learn' or 'do' in Niger, if such things are possible.
August 13th (?)
We have an 'exciting' weekend at Bisa Doutchi (what we call the training site in Hamdallaye because it's on a hill and Bisa Doutchi literally means 'on top of the hill') ahead of us, as site visits have been postponed due to some sort of security issue in the Maradi region. I'm glad they're looking out for us, but sad it'll be that much longer until I get to see my village. Everything's attitude: if one were to look on this as a 2 year stretch of 'withouts' (e.g. without family and friends, internet access, comforts of home such as toilet paper, AC, etc. etc.) it could be a pretty long and trying experience. BUT, after reading that beautiful article in The New Yorker, I was reminded of how INCREDIBLE this is and can be. I'm in the desert, in nearly the middle of Africa, braving crazy weather and elements, conservative customs and even a strange language to help a little bit, learn a little bit, be a little bit. How many people get an opportunity like this, to explore the edge of 'civil'-ization, one's own limits in such an extreme environment, and maybe even the big questions of life in a simpler, pastoral, pittoresque setting? I could be even crazier, go even further, venture further off the beaten path...anything is possible. I dare myself to be more daring. I've been safe a lot in my life. Niger's pretty exciting, evidently, so I'll do this before I get to any of the next craziness.
August the next day
While frustrating to be at summer camp with other Americans and 'Friends' and 'Sex and the City' rather than at site (or en route), today has still managed to be excellent. Volleyball tournament, another New Yorker from Heather, food and pause snack all day long (we have a pause at 10:00am and 3:30 or 4:00pm where we get tea and food), and a truly impressive talent show, with some tea and cards inbetween made for a not-so-bad day at Bisa Doutchi. Lindsay and my rendition of 'Elephant Love Medley' earned us 'Most Hilarious' and Janice, Elise, Heather and Mariah were so sincere and sweet in sharing their talents. Tomorrow we've got a game of Capture the Flag planned, as well as running, boot camp a la Mason, and probably more yoga, possibly led by me. We're creatively filling our time and tonight at the dance party, (impromptu right after the talent show, of course) I really felt endeared and connected to this bunch of randos. Tondi thinks the talent show should be a mandatory scheduled activity for future stages, and I felt so impressed with those who shared of themselves so honestly, and like a cohesive group who was making the most of an unexpected standfast weekend at Bisa Doutchi. I thought about me as an individual, who signed up for this experience on my own, and now find myself with a hodgepodge group of people with different skills and talents, interests, hometowns, viewpoints and expectations for our time in Niger, but it works. The one main thing we all have in common is that we were crazy and masochistic enough to sign up for this and get on the plane. And soon it WILL be a largely individualistic endeavor (if we ever get out to our posts, that is!), so I'm working hard to downplay the disparities and glean as many good vibes, fun times, inspiration (Buddhist book and future discussion with Mackenzie!) and ridiculous memories (sitting on Mason while he recited a poem?!?) while this 'family' is stil all together.
August 16th
No site visit! A very hot day and stupid, practically pointless language activities are driving me to the edge. But, 'sai hankuri' ('have patience' in Hausa). This is a setback, the first big one, requiring patience and flexibility-a useful exercise in expecting the unexpected, in things not working out as planned. This is part of it, dirty clothes, lots of luggage, delays, dragging myself to language classes, working through difficult days. Life here is a balance, as I'm learning. I need to work on the cynicism/genuineness scale, as I tend too frequently to the former, as well as the pushing/pulling scale: when should I conform to cultural rules and when do I push back and stand my ground? Ramadan has been schooling me in this delicate dance. I'm so grateful for some of the other stagieres (trainees) with whom I can speak frankly, vent to, lean on, be snarky with and have inside jokes. It will be interesting to see the landscape of our stage by In-Service Training (in January)-if cliques still stand to some degree, if regions have gotten tight, if some friendships are as strong and special as ever...Erin and I are discussing fitness challenges (and other, e.g. cooking) that we can use to motivate us in our first 3 months alone at post. 'Alone'...I can't wait. But I won't really be: I'll have a whole town to get to know. As sexist, racist and xenophobic as the 60's Peace Corps book was, they had a genuine passion for their work and the people of Manta which resulted in a lot of concrete projects getting done during their service. Keeping the right scope and perspective will be a challenge-staying focused and realistic at post.
August 19th
Language Immersion is kicking our asses. Hmm, not true. Getting tossed out into Lisa's town without necessary equipment is throwing us for a loop. For the most part we're being good sports about it, looking on this as a really intense camping trip or just another test-are we really cut out for this? Can we really be here for the next 2 years? It's insane how fast I can go up and down here. Being mobbed by kids fighting over my hand as Lisa and I looked for Sprites in the heat of the day while on the verge of dehydration and didn't find them (Ramadannnn!!!!!) was definitely a low point. Going out later to buy rice, pasta, couscous and sugar and having exact change was so AWESOME! It sounds dumb but I was practically giddy. And then we made breakfast burritos for dinner. One tortilla vaguely looked like Africa and the 'insides' (onions, tomatos, hot peppers, tomato paste, eggs, 'cheese', various spices) looked like vomit but tasted so good! We all worked together and I felt so accomplished. Africa, throw your worst at me: bugs as big as my fist, no latrine for another day or so, going on my 3rd day without a shower, nosy kids, ridiculous heat, mosquito bites, no water filter, monsoon rains, puddles and mud and cars getting (almost) stuck, 12-hour cramped-as-hell busrides with hardly any stops and a woman sitting in the aisle next to me, across 'roads' which sometimes didn't merit that designation...BRING IT ON! We've decided on Madonna for our song competition entry and things are looking up. I wonder how everyone else is doing...all I know is that my Nigerien mantra stands: "If I can do this, I can do ANYTHING!" Stephanie pointed out today that it's been EXACTLY 6 weeks since we arrived in Niger and it's exactly 5 weeks until Swear In. Time is truly flying, so I must be having fun. But seriously, 6 weeks?!?!? The days are long but the weeks are blinks.
August 20th
We ate like kings today. Onions and garlic and tomatos and tomato paste and pasta for lunch; curry potatoes and squash and onion and coconut milk and couscous for dinner; coconut milk crepes and nutella and bananas for dessert! Lisa's lucky to have a cookbook handy, and I feel so competent and capable in the kitchen, though we did burn some of the couscous. I think I'll pull a Julie and Julia and get my grubby hands on a PCV Niger cookbook and work my way through all the recipes over the course of the next 2 years. WAY more hard core than Julie was! The heat is hard here: it's hard to concentrate in our Hausa classes but I need to. We just drank tea by the mosque with one of the Chef du Canton's 60 children...he's had maybe 8 wives in his life because when they die or get too old he gets another one, never having more than 4 at a time though, according to Islamic law. Amazing. I'm finding myself having a strange middle attitude when it comes to discussing the differences between Niger and America. FIrst of all it's difficult because America is never one thing: sure MOST families only have 2-3 kids, but there are always exceptions (the Duggars, for instance). Secondly, out of a tendency to avoid offending our hosts, and a tendency towards multicultural attitudes, I find myself agreeing with (at least outwardly) the 'Nigerien' way of life (e.g. multiple wives), and I'm shocked and appalled by Lisa's frankness (ha, Lisa Frank!) in regards to these things ("babu kyau" or "not cool!"). But I end up being shocked at my own complacency. Am I just a yes person? To what extent will I just go with the flow in order not to make waves? I guess that'll be teased out over the next 2 years...then I got all embarassed and demur when the mayor asked me whiy I didn't fast today...for some reason I didn't want to say the simplest answer, that I'm not Muslim. Probably because I didn't want to open a potentially hazardous conversation topic as a guest in Lisa's town and with so little Hausa under my belt. Hopefully I will become skilled in small talk and diffusing such situations. Cikin Hausa. Insha'Allah! I'm the dirtiest I've ever been in my life. Life is enhanced here. Emotions are magnified and I'm reminded every day in small ways that I'm alive, that I'm a human being on this planet. Sitting at tea, attempting to converse with Sani, Ilia, Konate, Lisa, Stephanie and Kimie I thought: I can do this. I can learn this language and have these conversations and forge these friendships and live this strange new communal life for the next 2 years. It's completely different than what I know-people don't retreat into their own homes, disparaging of human contact outside of work for an evening of mindnumbing television here. They sit together and talk together, about anything or nothing. They work hard as hell to accomplish basic daily tasks (like feeding, cleaning, caring for, washing, etc.) but look out for each other and get up in each others' business all the time. Every day is going to present new challenges but I'm still stoked on it all. I'm so privileged to have the time and knowhow and desire to write, this or anything, and I want to make sure I do. I wonder if there are any stories or writers in the Hausa language? I'm so fascinated by people I've met (the 93-year old Chef du Canton with 60 kids and 8 wives) or heard about (Konate's grandma lived to be 100) and I wonder if and how these stories are being told and/or shared. I wonder if there's some sort of project in this...
August 21st
The food we've been eating is so wonderful, and it's so wonderful to be preparing it for ourselves that I feel I need to chronicle all of our meals. This morning: oatmeal with peanuts, dried apricots, honey, cinnamon and dried cranberries. Lunch was just leftover snacks because it was too hot to move let alone cook. Dinner was prepared for us by Sani's wife and brought to our house: cornmeal and meat sauce. Little by little, this language will come. Discussions on development yield interesting results: is the work we'll do here futile? Peace Corps' been here for almost 50 years: has it done any good? Is 'sustainable' possible? What do I want to get out of this experience, and how can I make that happen? The weather is awe-inspiring, how insanely hot it can be in the afternoon and how gorgeous lightning in a cloud can be, and is. Captivating. I'm plugging into something real here, or I'm going to. Community, 'the simple life', humans' natural state, or closer to it than life in the United States. Is the crazy technologically advanced way of life in the US unnatural? Are humans living out our destiny, improving and evolving to a higher state, a better intimation of ourselves? Or are we foresaking some essential primal part of our being, becoming too comfortable and consequently losing out in some way? I can't think of a better way to meditate on this topic than to live in a hu in Africa for 2 years! And as hard as I push back against Islam (fasting? 4 wives?!?!?) I can't believe the mosque debate that's apparently raging at home. I would completely 100% be on the Islam side of that debate. Hello! I wonder how Nigeriens would react to the fact that this is an issue in the US.
August 22nd
This morning we went to a naming ceremony. I held the 1-week old doll-like baby and a woman offered me her baby (5 year old son, maybe it wasn't even hers) to take to America with me. I think. I barely understand any Hausa but it's getting better, little by little. It's hard to be motivated (the heat! the French!) here. But I feel great about being here. I was having good conversations with guys tonight while we drank tea. I'm reading a crazy book right now. That's all.
August 24th
Food! We had lentil 'burgers' with sweet potato fries tonight. Next time we need to let the lentils cook a little longer. Spaghetti and tomato sauce for lunch and falafel (!) last night in the most delicious (big and thick) tortillas I've made to date. Yesterday for lunch we had soup and bread (hot soup on a hot day = not my fave). The day before that we had the best egg sandwiches: egg, onion, Laughing Cow...mmm! Food is and will be a passion of mine here. Ironic because my choices are so limited here, and I just left the land o' plenty. If I can cook delicious meals here, I can cook anywhere!
August 25th
Weird things: arguably some of the poorest and hungriest people in the world fasting for a month to remember people who are poorer and hungrier than them, and to be grateful. WTF? Souley introducing Lisa and I to his 2 wives and multiple children. He grabbed what looked like a 9 year old girl by the shoulder and asked one of his wives: "Which one is this?" They've got a different relationship to death here. If you could have 2 wives, would you?
Today was hard. Tromping around the whole town in the heat of the day, getting dehydrated, I was in a bitter mood. I can get so ugly when I'm angry. It will pass, but today was hard, and helpful-but-in-the-way Nigeriens didn't help my mood. We made an AMAZING pizza for dinner though. I'm so impressed by myself in the kitchen, and I'm only going to get better. A life goal while I'm here. Get in shape, learn to cook, read a lot, fiction and non-fiction and periodicals-all these goals are so incongrous with my surroundings. It's hard to reconcile realities-that of Niger and that of the US, my reality and that of my neighbors' here in Niger-visiting the Chef du Canton's house (compound) today, it was so vivid how poor these people are, since his is probably the nicest house in the village and surrounding areas. He's local government yet his house is falling apart. And multiple wives-I really need to meditate on that. How do I respect my hosts and friends here while respecting/explaining my own point of view? What is my point of view, and why? Things get so topsy turvy turned around here. Two wives is bad. Because...do I have an answer for that? This is weird. It's a trip.
August 28th
Should I be more worried for the moment we're sent off to our posts? What will my daily activities be? Who will be my friends? Will I continue to think so much about what comes next (after Peace Corps)? I really need to just focus on being here, now. Learn and speak this crazy little language, in this dusty little country. I wonder what I will think about Niger and Nigeriens in...6 months. I'm walking the line between giving a shit and not being too hopeful about anything. We'll see how that changes as I get to know a town and the people who live in it. My post.
Sexy is dead here. I would LOVE to see an editorial fashion photo shoot done in Niger: slinky 'sexy' models dripping in haute couture surrounded by filth, poverty, children, cows, trash, mud,hard core Nigerien women pounding millet...like WTF? Such extremes, that some people have the money to go to the Louis Vuitton store on the Champs Elysee and drop a couple hundred euro for an unnecessary necessity like a wallet or a belt or a weekend bag, and some people want to have 20 kids because they plan on 10 dying. Fair? No. Fabulous? Fuck yes, grotesquely so.
September 1st
Yesterday everything became right again. Just sitting next to Will on the bus made me feel good. (Also he told me that the Irish Red Cross is in Zinder ville! I don't know how he found that out but I'm not questioning it)! So there's that. Then we watched a bunch of Glee and saw giraffes, the first ones I've seen here yet!!! They were so majestic and unexpected and unassuming and wild and so perfectly situated towards the end of a long day and a long journey (the whole of Language Immersion, really) that they portended nothing but good omens of good things to come. I'm still so blown away that last night we learned that Biiftu's post is our host family in Hamdallaye's hometown! Will and I will make it work, despite the distance.
September 3rd
We won the oreo cream pie that Jenelle made! I'll never be able to listen to Madonna's 'Holiday' in the same way again. For the next 2 years I'll never hear the end of 'Shakatawa! Babu layhee!' (roughly translates to 'Party! No problem!')
This is (sort of) a solo adventure. Meaning that I'm ready to get to my post and start figuring it out, no drama, no living on top of each other, no more LPIs (language proficiency tests) or mostly-stupid activities or sitting around watching movies because we don't know what else to do with ourselves. This was part of their plan: get us so sick of each other and being treated like we're 5 that we practically BOLT to our posts. Talking with Laouali (my supervisor) today I feel so excited and ready! I have project ideas and I'm ready to get out into the town and talk with people and have MY OWN TOWN! Does that sound selfish or lonesome or ridiculous? I think I'm exactly where they want me to be.
That's it for now. We Swear In (and become official volunteers) in less than 3 weeks!
Tuesday, August 10, 2010
I'm in Niger!
I don't even know where to start! Life here is so different than the US, from what we eat (rice and sauce, mainly), to where we sleep (outside under bug nets and the most beautiful sky I've ever seen, unless it's raining), to where I poop (in a hole in the ground). I'm having a lot of fun, and the other trainees are very fun. I'm taking Hausa classes and trying to keep my level of French up. It's a lot to take in but I'm rocking it! Today I find out my post: where I'm going to live and work for the next 2 years! I'm nervous but very excited. We are training in a town called Hamdallaye (from the Arabic "thanks be to God"), outside of Niamey, the capital. We've gotten to go into Niamey a few times on the weekends to shop and/or eat and drink good food (I got a hamburger, milkshake, pizza, and fish here, but they were definitely special treats). I love getting mail, but don't need any packages yet. I'm reading a lot and thinking a lot, having ups and downs, but I've stayed pretty healthy. I go running sometimes in the early morning with some of the other trainees, and have even led a yoga session or two! I had bacteria in my intestines, but some antibiotics cleared it right up! I've seen a few camels, but no giraffes yet. This weekend we're going to visit our sites (alone, for 4 days) and then do a 10-day immersion in a Hausa-speaking town with 2 other volunteers and 1 of our language teachers. Should be exciting! Until the next time, sai hankuri (have patience)!
Monday, July 05, 2010
Thank you!
I'm off! 4.5 hours from now I'm going to wake up to phly to Philly and start this crazy Peace Corps adventure. I'm so grateful for the ones who helped fill my iPod with music (Hannah, Mara, Andrew, Charlie, Steve, Megan and Chelsea!), the ones who celebrated with me this next great step, the ones who support me through it all and have kept me present, living in the moment, in Oregon, up until the very last second! But most especially, I'm so grateful to my mom! I'd be lost and a million times less prepared without her. I owe her money when I get back and an island when I strike it rich (someday). I'm excited right now, and I'm excited that I'm still excited. Sure I'm a little nervous about bucket baths for the next 2.25 years, but for the most part I can't wait. It's been a long time coming, (at least it's felt like that), and I'm just glad the day is finally here! I'm sure I forgot to pack some essentials, but that's what I have you people for! Care packages!!
If you're reading this right now, thank you!! I'll post updates as often as I can, and keep in touch: even if I can't see you or hear from you every day, I'm still thinking about and loving on you!
Goodbye Portland, it's been real. MWAH!
If you're reading this right now, thank you!! I'll post updates as often as I can, and keep in touch: even if I can't see you or hear from you every day, I'm still thinking about and loving on you!
Goodbye Portland, it's been real. MWAH!
Sunday, June 27, 2010
Sucking the Marrow out of Portland
I'm partying like a crazy person from now until 10 days from now. I've had a few parties at the floating home, I'm eating at food carts or Saturday Market or bars galore, picnics at Laurelhurst Park or birthday parties at Mara's...this is the good life. My last days in Portland are filled with: good weather, yummy beverages and food, great friends, fun strangers/new friends, world cup games, etc. Needless to say, adventures abound.
The weirdness of leaving for 2 years is beginning to set in. I've given myself free license to eat all the veggies, fruits, meat, junk food, and other delicious sundries I can get my hands on (guessing it's a pretty safe bet that I won't be able to find sushi in Niger). I'm starting to feel queasy at the thought of not seeing these people for a spell. I get all moody, but then I just grab a friend (and a drink) and keep on keepin' on! I'm filling my schedule for my last 8 days with: Doug's play, coworker happy hour, drinks and dinner with Bart, STEVE!!!, errands and shopping with my mom, filling my iPod with music from friends, world cup games, beer, wine, friends and coworkers, and sleep (but only if I can squeeze it in). :) And then there's Philadelphia with Tab and Michael Faris and Jenny Balisteri!
Images of the past few weeks that will stay with me for awhile (whether I'd like them to or not): running into a bachelorette party with Miles at Dixie Tavern (safe to say, the first and last time I'll ever frequent that joint). Strawberry daiquiris and yummy 'cuisine a la Dau' at the floating home. Drinking wine with Rachel watching my new favorite show, Noah's Arc.
I'm so excited, but worried, a little. Worried that Niger isn't ready for all this jelly! Hey-eyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!
The weirdness of leaving for 2 years is beginning to set in. I've given myself free license to eat all the veggies, fruits, meat, junk food, and other delicious sundries I can get my hands on (guessing it's a pretty safe bet that I won't be able to find sushi in Niger). I'm starting to feel queasy at the thought of not seeing these people for a spell. I get all moody, but then I just grab a friend (and a drink) and keep on keepin' on! I'm filling my schedule for my last 8 days with: Doug's play, coworker happy hour, drinks and dinner with Bart, STEVE!!!, errands and shopping with my mom, filling my iPod with music from friends, world cup games, beer, wine, friends and coworkers, and sleep (but only if I can squeeze it in). :) And then there's Philadelphia with Tab and Michael Faris and Jenny Balisteri!
Images of the past few weeks that will stay with me for awhile (whether I'd like them to or not): running into a bachelorette party with Miles at Dixie Tavern (safe to say, the first and last time I'll ever frequent that joint). Strawberry daiquiris and yummy 'cuisine a la Dau' at the floating home. Drinking wine with Rachel watching my new favorite show, Noah's Arc.
I'm so excited, but worried, a little. Worried that Niger isn't ready for all this jelly! Hey-eyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!!!!!!
Monday, June 21, 2010
Newsflash:
Camping with my brother and his friends in Cascadia: incredible.
The whole world (or even country) isn't a liberal-land-hipster-haven like Portland, Oregon. Duh, but, still, sometimes it's shocking to be reminded of this fact. For example: some people wouldn't hang out with openly gay members of the military (provided the Don't Ask Don't Tell repeal goes all the way through) outside of work because of what other people would say about them ("if he's hanging out with a f*****t, he MUST be gay!"). I started crying, but I'm sure the 1/2 a gallon of Carlo Rossi I'd drunk that night helped with that. But, are you kidding me?!?!?!?! If thinking that everyone deserves a fair break and friends no matter what their sexual orientation is makes me a bleeding heart liberal then I am a BLEEDING HEART MOTHERFUCKIN' LIBERAL!!! America is awesome, but also fucked up and slow-moving and backwards. Fuck it. I'm out. (2 weeks from today, like WHAT?!?!?!)
Party down.
The whole world (or even country) isn't a liberal-land-hipster-haven like Portland, Oregon. Duh, but, still, sometimes it's shocking to be reminded of this fact. For example: some people wouldn't hang out with openly gay members of the military (provided the Don't Ask Don't Tell repeal goes all the way through) outside of work because of what other people would say about them ("if he's hanging out with a f*****t, he MUST be gay!"). I started crying, but I'm sure the 1/2 a gallon of Carlo Rossi I'd drunk that night helped with that. But, are you kidding me?!?!?!?! If thinking that everyone deserves a fair break and friends no matter what their sexual orientation is makes me a bleeding heart liberal then I am a BLEEDING HEART MOTHERFUCKIN' LIBERAL!!! America is awesome, but also fucked up and slow-moving and backwards. Fuck it. I'm out. (2 weeks from today, like WHAT?!?!?!)
Party down.
Tuesday, June 08, 2010
Hot damn!
The 4th of July is going to be EPIC this year, because I just scheduled my flight to Philadelphia for 8:40 am on July 5th!!! This is really happening!! I am going to be in Niger a month from today... :O
Let's see, I've ordered a few pairs of shoes online which are on their way to me (Chaco's and a pair of Keens, which is based in Portland, who knew?), and I really should get serious about packing. AH!!
Miles comes home on Thursday and then we're having a big kegger here at the house on Sunday. Aunt Robin and Madeleine and Reid are going to be here!! Wahoo! Get ready, No Po, for the craziest party you've ever seeeeen (I've got 2 outfits)!
I went to Goodfoot with Alisha last week, Momo's with Hannah, (we also drank some Rogue beer down at the Saturday Market, holla!), Yur's awhile back, some dive bar downtown with Charlie, Helser's again with Megan and Belinda, (who's not imaginary...she's real!)...sucking the marrow out of Portland up until the last minute (yum, foodcarts)!
Let's see, I've ordered a few pairs of shoes online which are on their way to me (Chaco's and a pair of Keens, which is based in Portland, who knew?), and I really should get serious about packing. AH!!
Miles comes home on Thursday and then we're having a big kegger here at the house on Sunday. Aunt Robin and Madeleine and Reid are going to be here!! Wahoo! Get ready, No Po, for the craziest party you've ever seeeeen (I've got 2 outfits)!
I went to Goodfoot with Alisha last week, Momo's with Hannah, (we also drank some Rogue beer down at the Saturday Market, holla!), Yur's awhile back, some dive bar downtown with Charlie, Helser's again with Megan and Belinda, (who's not imaginary...she's real!)...sucking the marrow out of Portland up until the last minute (yum, foodcarts)!
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Best. Weekend. EVER! (Until the next, that is)!
Thursday would have been a perfect day except for the weather. Meh, it's Oregon in the springtime. Which, I've decided, is the perfect metaphor for life: it may be sunny for now, but 5 minutes later it will be pouring and you'll be soaked. Oregonians know this, so we're always prepared (or should be) and we don't hesitate to soak up every second of sunshine, because who knows how long it'll stay? I digress. I started at Tasty & Sons for brunch with Mara and Lauren. I can speak to the tasty (mmmmmboy! the pork cutlets melted in my mouth!), but where were the sons? Then on to a hair appointment with Chris which was like an interview for him at a new salon in the Pearl. He ROCKED it: I love my hair and he got the job! Awesomeness continued when I met up with Megan to hang out and we proceeded to cook, I mean uncook a raw food meal. WOW! A bunch of veggies and spices and herbs and sauces and lettuce, and it was actually pretty darn yummy. Following that, Chris and I headed over to the party of the century: Guidos (& guidettes) vs. Hipsters! Instant Jersey Shore recipe: hot new haircut + short shorts + gobs of bronzer + drawn-on Italia tattoo = one hot Snooki, if I do say so myself! ;)
Friday started out with Helser's on Alberta for breakfast with Mara and John (Mara's a huge breakfast/brunch fanatic). All I can remember is: crumpets!! But they were delicious! That night my mom, stepdad and I headed over to our favorite island happy hour spot, Shenanigan's (inside the Red Lion). If you're feeling sassy and classy...this isn't the place for you. If your mom is buying, it's barely acceptable. Ok ok, maybe if BOTH bridges collapse and you somehow find yourself stuck on Hayden Island (Jantzen Beach)...no, I'd still say: swim! I guess I felt I couldn't end the night there, so I forced my mom to drive us over to Backstage, (off of Hawthorne, behind the Bagdad), a gorgeous McMenamin's I've been hearing about for awhile but which was finally introduced to me by Hannah last week. Pool + guest appearance by Doug + most gorgeous mural in a bar EVER = WIN!
Saturday meant shopping! Hooray capitalism! My mom and I went to Bridgeport Village and the Woodburn Outlet Mall because we are classy like that! I got some shoes, some shirts, a raincoat, a headlamp, a radio, a waterbottle...did I mention I'm going to Africa in 43 days?!?! AH! I really need to read up more on Niger, as my current talking points (it's 80% desert! they're poor!) just aren't cutting it. As I was watching Sex and the City the movie with a big ol' glass of (boxed) wine that evening, I was summoned to Blow Pony, the big gay party at Rotture that I've never gotten around to getting to. So I got myself all dolled up in my drag queen/Katy Perry get-up and I'm so glad I went! Sophia, Sam, Eryn, Chris, Charlie, drag queens, dance music: hells yeah!
ANNOUNCEMENTS:
Welcome to the world, new little cousin Isabella Selah McFarland!
16 days until Miles gets here!
Friday started out with Helser's on Alberta for breakfast with Mara and John (Mara's a huge breakfast/brunch fanatic). All I can remember is: crumpets!! But they were delicious! That night my mom, stepdad and I headed over to our favorite island happy hour spot, Shenanigan's (inside the Red Lion). If you're feeling sassy and classy...this isn't the place for you. If your mom is buying, it's barely acceptable. Ok ok, maybe if BOTH bridges collapse and you somehow find yourself stuck on Hayden Island (Jantzen Beach)...no, I'd still say: swim! I guess I felt I couldn't end the night there, so I forced my mom to drive us over to Backstage, (off of Hawthorne, behind the Bagdad), a gorgeous McMenamin's I've been hearing about for awhile but which was finally introduced to me by Hannah last week. Pool + guest appearance by Doug + most gorgeous mural in a bar EVER = WIN!
Saturday meant shopping! Hooray capitalism! My mom and I went to Bridgeport Village and the Woodburn Outlet Mall because we are classy like that! I got some shoes, some shirts, a raincoat, a headlamp, a radio, a waterbottle...did I mention I'm going to Africa in 43 days?!?! AH! I really need to read up more on Niger, as my current talking points (it's 80% desert! they're poor!) just aren't cutting it. As I was watching Sex and the City the movie with a big ol' glass of (boxed) wine that evening, I was summoned to Blow Pony, the big gay party at Rotture that I've never gotten around to getting to. So I got myself all dolled up in my drag queen/Katy Perry get-up and I'm so glad I went! Sophia, Sam, Eryn, Chris, Charlie, drag queens, dance music: hells yeah!
ANNOUNCEMENTS:
Welcome to the world, new little cousin Isabella Selah McFarland!
16 days until Miles gets here!
Sunday, May 16, 2010
Riding High
Whirlwind.
Thursday: GRE. I went into it cursing the day I signed up for it and feeling underprepared. I left pretty stoked that I got higher than the average (on the quantitative part) of the incoming 2009 class of the Georgetown University School of Foreign Service's Master of Science in Foreign Service program. Can you spot the nerd? I didn't do better on the verbal part (I'm the shame of English majors everywhere), but I think I did GOOD ENOUGH! Yaay!
Next up, Peace Corps potluck, where I met fellow invitees, nominees, and RPCVs (returned Peace Corps peeps). One of the gals was leaving for Kenya in 10 days! (So, I guess, in about a week now)! I learned about things I should definitely take (a French-press coffee maker, a headlamp, a shortwave radio, good-smelling candles, rechargeable batteries) and things I shouldn't (thousands of q-tips...I'll be able to get them there). I even saw two people I knew from a past life: Jon and Charlie, both from OSU, both from the residence halls (AKA "dorms" to laypeople). They (and everyone else I met) were so awesome!! I was definitely in good company, and got even more excited for this crazy adventure! The very next morning, I had a facebook message from a Peace Corps volunteer in Niger right now...OMG this is really happening!
That night, buzzing from all the excitement, I met up with some coworkers and friends for some much-needed beverage. Thank you, Kelly's and Shanghai Tunnels, for being EXACTLY what I needed (and friends, for being awesome and fun and supportive)!
Friday: drive to Russia! Yes that's right, my mom and I woke up and drove, first to Hood River where we stopped for a bite and a beer at the Full Sail Brewery, then on to Moscow, Idaho for my lovely little cousin Erin's graduation from college! It was the perfect weekend, full of great family and fun friends ("bienvenidas a la familia!" I would say, explaining our craziness to Erin's unsuspecting friends). I spent most of the drive back in Aunt Beth's Mustang. We had the top down and I got a tan! I also got $20 by spotting the longhorn sheep before she saw them. BooYAH!
It's smooth sailing from here. My job's going down to part-time, my brother's coming home sometime in June, and coordinating a Cali trip is my biggest 'worry' besides acquiring all the things I'll need for Niger. iPod, check, next big purchase: a pair of Chacos!
Thursday: GRE. I went into it cursing the day I signed up for it and feeling underprepared. I left pretty stoked that I got higher than the average (on the quantitative part) of the incoming 2009 class of the Georgetown University School of Foreign Service's Master of Science in Foreign Service program. Can you spot the nerd? I didn't do better on the verbal part (I'm the shame of English majors everywhere), but I think I did GOOD ENOUGH! Yaay!
Next up, Peace Corps potluck, where I met fellow invitees, nominees, and RPCVs (returned Peace Corps peeps). One of the gals was leaving for Kenya in 10 days! (So, I guess, in about a week now)! I learned about things I should definitely take (a French-press coffee maker, a headlamp, a shortwave radio, good-smelling candles, rechargeable batteries) and things I shouldn't (thousands of q-tips...I'll be able to get them there). I even saw two people I knew from a past life: Jon and Charlie, both from OSU, both from the residence halls (AKA "dorms" to laypeople). They (and everyone else I met) were so awesome!! I was definitely in good company, and got even more excited for this crazy adventure! The very next morning, I had a facebook message from a Peace Corps volunteer in Niger right now...OMG this is really happening!
That night, buzzing from all the excitement, I met up with some coworkers and friends for some much-needed beverage. Thank you, Kelly's and Shanghai Tunnels, for being EXACTLY what I needed (and friends, for being awesome and fun and supportive)!
Friday: drive to Russia! Yes that's right, my mom and I woke up and drove, first to Hood River where we stopped for a bite and a beer at the Full Sail Brewery, then on to Moscow, Idaho for my lovely little cousin Erin's graduation from college! It was the perfect weekend, full of great family and fun friends ("bienvenidas a la familia!" I would say, explaining our craziness to Erin's unsuspecting friends). I spent most of the drive back in Aunt Beth's Mustang. We had the top down and I got a tan! I also got $20 by spotting the longhorn sheep before she saw them. BooYAH!
It's smooth sailing from here. My job's going down to part-time, my brother's coming home sometime in June, and coordinating a Cali trip is my biggest 'worry' besides acquiring all the things I'll need for Niger. iPod, check, next big purchase: a pair of Chacos!
Monday, May 10, 2010
Fellow Niger PCVS, you out there?
Life's been pretty surreal lately. I think and talk about Niger only in social situations when people pepper me with dozens of questions. Other than that, I'm trying to focus on more pressing matters. I'm taking the GRE later this week! I was nuts to sign up for this, and I'm just hoping to come out the other end with an average score, above-average seems too much to hope for at this point. I have to finish reading my book by the end of this week, and I've started thinking about packing (what shoes and clothes and things will I need? I just bought an Oregon t-shirt at the Saturday Market yesterday, on Sunday). And family, friends and Portland- and America-themed adventures are keeping me busy too!
Friday I hung out with cousins Kirk & Sue, Kate and Kyle in Salem. We went to the dump, Home Depot, and for lunch we went to a Mexican restaurant and then got a Belgian waffle and a cannoli for dessert (not at the Mexican restaurant). I need to start running. Next week. Saturday I went to a 'Mothers and Others' brunch and then hung out in SE. It was gorgeous! Mara and I met up with some of her friends on Mississippi for Amnesia Brewery fare, where I got a yummy pint and a spicy sausage with sauerkraut and spicy mustard. It was awesome! Then she and I volunteered as the concessions people for a play. Portland Playhouse's production of Radio Golf was incredible! The acting was good, the set design was cool ("you're such a theater nerd" said Mara), and the setting was intimate and awesome (in an old church, a thrust stage). I miss you, the theater! Then we met up with John and went out to the Aalto Lounge. Rock it, Portland!
To continue the Portland did-it list: last Tuesday I checked out the Rialto (nice old sports bar), the Tube (a classic-the yummiest cheap well drinks around), and the Boiler Room where we sang karaoke! Carly Simon's You're so vain is my go-to karaoke tune. Mara and I sang a duet, and apparently we don't know the lyrics to Telephone as well as we thought we did. Damn. And a sushi restaurant opened on the first floor of our building: Sushi Sakura is yummy, pretty cheap, and even cheaper for us since John now works there and gives us deals!
My job got extended, so after this week I'll be working part-time basically up until when I leave. Which has its pluses and minuses, but I think the good outweighs the bad: I'll stay busy, and as John says, "Beer don't buy itself!" Yesterday, Mother's Day, Alisha hosted a fabulous brunch (featuring 'Marc's Brunch Munch, a delicious new dish created by Marc-"you should open up a food cart!"), so I skipped part of work to hang with Aunt Beth, Barb & Nick, my mom, Alisha and Marc. It was excellent. Mimosas are the best invention ever. Now here I am at the beginning of another work week, so excited for my roadtrip to Moscow (Idaho) on Friday, and wondering where all the other Niger July 2010 Peace Corps Volunteers are! I guess they're not as obsessed as I am: I check facebook groups and the Peace Corps Wiki almost daily for news, even though I already got my Invitation, the biggest news of all. I'm not too worried: I'll meet them eventually. Just like how my mom's been checking out Niger on Google Earth. I haven't, because I figure: I'll be there! I'll get my fill soon enough!
Things to look forward to:
-Moscow (countdown: 5 days)
-Miles (probably coming around June 10th, so, countdown: 1 month)
-Niger (countdown: a shade less than 2 months)
Friday I hung out with cousins Kirk & Sue, Kate and Kyle in Salem. We went to the dump, Home Depot, and for lunch we went to a Mexican restaurant and then got a Belgian waffle and a cannoli for dessert (not at the Mexican restaurant). I need to start running. Next week. Saturday I went to a 'Mothers and Others' brunch and then hung out in SE. It was gorgeous! Mara and I met up with some of her friends on Mississippi for Amnesia Brewery fare, where I got a yummy pint and a spicy sausage with sauerkraut and spicy mustard. It was awesome! Then she and I volunteered as the concessions people for a play. Portland Playhouse's production of Radio Golf was incredible! The acting was good, the set design was cool ("you're such a theater nerd" said Mara), and the setting was intimate and awesome (in an old church, a thrust stage). I miss you, the theater! Then we met up with John and went out to the Aalto Lounge. Rock it, Portland!
To continue the Portland did-it list: last Tuesday I checked out the Rialto (nice old sports bar), the Tube (a classic-the yummiest cheap well drinks around), and the Boiler Room where we sang karaoke! Carly Simon's You're so vain is my go-to karaoke tune. Mara and I sang a duet, and apparently we don't know the lyrics to Telephone as well as we thought we did. Damn. And a sushi restaurant opened on the first floor of our building: Sushi Sakura is yummy, pretty cheap, and even cheaper for us since John now works there and gives us deals!
My job got extended, so after this week I'll be working part-time basically up until when I leave. Which has its pluses and minuses, but I think the good outweighs the bad: I'll stay busy, and as John says, "Beer don't buy itself!" Yesterday, Mother's Day, Alisha hosted a fabulous brunch (featuring 'Marc's Brunch Munch, a delicious new dish created by Marc-"you should open up a food cart!"), so I skipped part of work to hang with Aunt Beth, Barb & Nick, my mom, Alisha and Marc. It was excellent. Mimosas are the best invention ever. Now here I am at the beginning of another work week, so excited for my roadtrip to Moscow (Idaho) on Friday, and wondering where all the other Niger July 2010 Peace Corps Volunteers are! I guess they're not as obsessed as I am: I check facebook groups and the Peace Corps Wiki almost daily for news, even though I already got my Invitation, the biggest news of all. I'm not too worried: I'll meet them eventually. Just like how my mom's been checking out Niger on Google Earth. I haven't, because I figure: I'll be there! I'll get my fill soon enough!
Things to look forward to:
-Moscow (countdown: 5 days)
-Miles (probably coming around June 10th, so, countdown: 1 month)
-Niger (countdown: a shade less than 2 months)
Tuesday, April 27, 2010
Government Passport, check and check!
I started out the day going to Passport Immigration Photos on Broadway & Glisan, to get some passport photos. Whoa. Just a few days ago (Saturday night at midnight) two people got hit and killed by a bus right outside the place. There were balloons and pictures and candles. Sobering. The lady who took my picture was really nice-she's originally from Bulgaria and came to the US following her brother who was escaping from communism. She said Bulgaria's a nice place to visit (good food!), but not so good for the people who live there ($2-300 per month, which I guess is better than Cambodia...$20 per month income). What can we do? She liked that I was going into the Peace Corpse (how she pronounced it), and told me to come see her when I got back. Why not?
Then at around 6pm I was walking briskly to the UPS store to mail off my passport and Niger visa applications, when on the way in I bumped into the UPS guy, who took my envelope (Peace Corps paid the postage) and TOTALLY made my day. It was that easy: something going perfectly right. I've been all discombobulated since I got my invitation on Sunday. I can't focus on anything, I feel like I have a million things to do (almost true) before I go, and I feel like I'm trying to move through mud. Now I guess I've got to start learning Hausa and Zarma, some local languages in Niger for which the Peace Corps has so awesomely provided me online lessons. Rock rock on.
Then at around 6pm I was walking briskly to the UPS store to mail off my passport and Niger visa applications, when on the way in I bumped into the UPS guy, who took my envelope (Peace Corps paid the postage) and TOTALLY made my day. It was that easy: something going perfectly right. I've been all discombobulated since I got my invitation on Sunday. I can't focus on anything, I feel like I have a million things to do (almost true) before I go, and I feel like I'm trying to move through mud. Now I guess I've got to start learning Hausa and Zarma, some local languages in Niger for which the Peace Corps has so awesomely provided me online lessons. Rock rock on.
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Niger!
I'm so excited...I got my invitation today to be a Peace Corps Volunteer in Niger! I'm going to be Community & Youth/English Language Educator, which means I won't be working in a classroom, but with community members and kids in after-school groups, tutoring clubs, etc. WOW! It's going to be so much better than what I was expecting-a huge challenge but an awesome adventure! I'm going to be reading up on Niger a lot between now and July 7th! Here's a start:
Niger Wikipedia Article
Current Affairs with China
Can't wait!
Niger Wikipedia Article
Current Affairs with China
Can't wait!
Wednesday, April 21, 2010
Monday, April 12, 2010
One Tetanus Shot Away...
...from a Peace Corps invitation! I got word last weekend that they're reviewing my medical file and that's all I'm missing. I'm going to hear within a week or two, I feel it! I just have to head to Safeway tomorrow for the booster ("Yes I'll have a pint of ice cream, a bottle of wine, and one Tetanus booster please!"). I can't wait! (for the invitation, not the needle...I'm not masochistic!)
Otherwise, I'm reading sexy books (Game Change), hanging with family (Uncle Lee: "I don't care what a person's sexuality is as long as they don't scare the horses." Aunt Jeannie: "My mom was the best read person who ever existed!" Alisha: "I'm moving to SE. I'm awesome!"), drinking delicious wine (we cracked the 2002 Vieux Magon from Tunisia that I lugged across the Med to France and my mom brought from France to here...it was YUMMY!), and planning for a kickass last hurrah across the West (Moscow, ID; PDX, OR; Santa Cruz, CA; SoCal? Reno? Seattle?) to span weeks if not months. People are like: "You just got back!" I'm like: "Peace out, Sarah Palin!"
I went to Joel's first birthday party. I hope he has 99 more. Hannah and I bought him books...can't start 'em too young! Gotta inspire today's youth to intellectual greatness! One of the books was fuzzy-hooray tactile! He was about the cutest thing I've ever seen. Definitely got my kid fix for the...year. :)
Did I also mention that last weekend involved brunch 3 days in a row?? Mimosas, bloody Marys, eggs, sausage, smoked trout, good company...could a weekend get any better? (Bijou Cafe, Broder, and Jake's Grill were the venues lucky enough to be graced by my presence)
That's all for now...hopefully I'll have big big news coming soon soon soon!
Otherwise, I'm reading sexy books (Game Change), hanging with family (Uncle Lee: "I don't care what a person's sexuality is as long as they don't scare the horses." Aunt Jeannie: "My mom was the best read person who ever existed!" Alisha: "I'm moving to SE. I'm awesome!"), drinking delicious wine (we cracked the 2002 Vieux Magon from Tunisia that I lugged across the Med to France and my mom brought from France to here...it was YUMMY!), and planning for a kickass last hurrah across the West (Moscow, ID; PDX, OR; Santa Cruz, CA; SoCal? Reno? Seattle?) to span weeks if not months. People are like: "You just got back!" I'm like: "Peace out, Sarah Palin!"
I went to Joel's first birthday party. I hope he has 99 more. Hannah and I bought him books...can't start 'em too young! Gotta inspire today's youth to intellectual greatness! One of the books was fuzzy-hooray tactile! He was about the cutest thing I've ever seen. Definitely got my kid fix for the...year. :)
Did I also mention that last weekend involved brunch 3 days in a row?? Mimosas, bloody Marys, eggs, sausage, smoked trout, good company...could a weekend get any better? (Bijou Cafe, Broder, and Jake's Grill were the venues lucky enough to be graced by my presence)
That's all for now...hopefully I'll have big big news coming soon soon soon!
Tuesday, March 30, 2010
Going Crazy!
With Luke off adventuring in the DR already, I'm officially as antsy and anxious as can be (well, maybe not...I could probably get a little worse)! I'm checking the Future Peace Corps Volunteers facebook page and the Peace Corps wiki DAILY for any news on that front. April is 2 days away and I'm expecting/hoping/crossing fingers that sometime in that month is when I'll get my invitation. It's comforting to see that many other FPCV (future Peace Corps vols) are in the same boat as me and freaking out accordingly.
What should I do to fill up my time and my mind between now and whenever I'll receive the invitation? I've started a list...
What should I do to fill up my time and my mind between now and whenever I'll receive the invitation? I've started a list...
- Party like a dictator with coworkers & friends
- Plan more parties
- Read like a fiend
- Drink wine and discuss said read books in a book club of sorts
- Visit Corvallis
- Lunch and coffee with friends
- Spend weekends at Aunt Beth's w/Marc & Alisha (occasional appearances by Uncle Val). That family are some of my fave peeps at the momo
- Drink Bloody Marys at Momo's on lunch breaks
- Plan awesome family trips for the months of May/June (Moscow, Santa Cruz, Miles coming back to Oregon, EEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
- Start packing? Ha! How about...start thinking about packing...yeah...
- Start consciously and fully appreciating things like indoor plumbing, central heating, refrigerators (?), friends on the same continent, paved roads, crap TV, the internets, &c. &c. &c.
- Clean up my 'to-do in Portland' list so far. Still have to get to Holocene and maybe that 21+ mini-golfing John mentioned... :)
- Dinner and drinks with Hannah and her mum, me and mine
- Maybe go camping sometime? When the weather gets nicer; I haven't been in awhile
- ...
- ...
- ???
Sunday, March 07, 2010
Lately
The weather's been nice lately, which just makes me wary of what's to come. In like a lamb...
I live on the wrong side of town. I've known this, obviously, for some time (Jantzen Beach is the most disgusting mix of industrial, trashy 'mall,' Vancoovies, and million dollar yachts imaginable...little wonder we hit the bottle so frequently down here). And a beautifully fabulously lazy day in SE yesterday complete with Swedish food, Hamm's, a sunset on a rooftop, and a healthy smattering of hipsters just made it all that much more obvious. (Note: for good Swedish fare and a really cute waitstaff ;), DEFINITELY check out Broder. 3 thumbs up!).
The fair weather has also made increasingly obvious the lack of a bike in my life.
Nerding out - my latest acquisition from putting stuff on hold at the public library, (recommended by Megan), is Career Diplomacy, a book all about my future working in the Foreign Service. [Speaking of my future...yeah, nothing to report. Peace Corps wasn't kidding when they casually dropped the word 'waiting' into their literature a time or two.]
Thoughts and preoccupations of late:
The Sultan Cafe - hard to find place but made up for it with yummy hookah, which simultaneously makes me feel cool as shit and miss the shit out of my brother. That shit's good shit!
Pope House - yummy bourbons. sweet bathroom. because of the Kentucky Derby, of course.
The Bitter End - I remember a jukebox, some Gogol Bordello and Johnny Cash. "This reminds me of every bar in Wisconsin." quoth the Wisconsinites.
So at least I'm continuing in my goal to get Portland did. I rode the #4 down Mississippi and that's where I want to try next, wallet- and weather-permitting. Did I really start this post out talking about the weather? How depressing...
I live on the wrong side of town. I've known this, obviously, for some time (Jantzen Beach is the most disgusting mix of industrial, trashy 'mall,' Vancoovies, and million dollar yachts imaginable...little wonder we hit the bottle so frequently down here). And a beautifully fabulously lazy day in SE yesterday complete with Swedish food, Hamm's, a sunset on a rooftop, and a healthy smattering of hipsters just made it all that much more obvious. (Note: for good Swedish fare and a really cute waitstaff ;), DEFINITELY check out Broder. 3 thumbs up!).
The fair weather has also made increasingly obvious the lack of a bike in my life.
Nerding out - my latest acquisition from putting stuff on hold at the public library, (recommended by Megan), is Career Diplomacy, a book all about my future working in the Foreign Service. [Speaking of my future...yeah, nothing to report. Peace Corps wasn't kidding when they casually dropped the word 'waiting' into their literature a time or two.]
Thoughts and preoccupations of late:
- the earthquake in Chile. as far as I know, everyone I know is okay, despite the epicenter being super close to Chillan. Their homes, (and subsequent safety) aren't so stable. what can I do? not much from here. But I know of a family or two who could use some help, anyone interested.
- what will Meryl Streep have to do to win another Oscar? Like, seriously, who will she have to channel? Jesus? Mary? Joseph? All 3 at the same time?
- I used to think about being a stateswoman on Capitol Hill someday. But do I really want to run in that crowd? I mean, reading A People's History of the US is making me sick, and it's all the Capitalists' fault!
- I'm so glad I'm not 16 and pregnant. But I'm also so glad MTV made a show about it to remind me how glad I am that I'm not!
- Evan Lysacek on Dancing with the Stars. OMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMGOMG!!!!
The Sultan Cafe - hard to find place but made up for it with yummy hookah, which simultaneously makes me feel cool as shit and miss the shit out of my brother. That shit's good shit!
Pope House - yummy bourbons. sweet bathroom. because of the Kentucky Derby, of course.
The Bitter End - I remember a jukebox, some Gogol Bordello and Johnny Cash. "This reminds me of every bar in Wisconsin." quoth the Wisconsinites.
So at least I'm continuing in my goal to get Portland did. I rode the #4 down Mississippi and that's where I want to try next, wallet- and weather-permitting. Did I really start this post out talking about the weather? How depressing...
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